We put the kids on the school bus Friday morning, dropped Bodie (our dog) off at a neighbor's house and took off. Once on I95, the drive is easy and we filled the 7 hour drive with both light and heavy conversation. Soon enough we were in the outskirts of North Charleston. Too early for the dinner I had planned, so we burned off an hour or so checking out downtown Summerville. Cute, but just OK.
On to Folly Beach, almost. We slowed just short of Folly and made a quick right turn in the middle of the vast marshland, and picked our way down an oyster shell road to the Bowen Island Restaurant (www.bowensislandrestaurant.com). We got there early so we could get a good spot on the outside deck to eat fried fish and shrimp and chase it with a cold beer as we watched the sun go down over the creek and marsh. A friend who told me about the place said I had to make sure to leave my initials in on the outside bar (along with a myriad of others, so, in the southern way, I obliged him. No snob appeal here, just pure magic!
We drove back into Charleston and checked into our hotel, the Vendue Inn.
We dumped our stuff, and then went to the end of the street for some gelato and stroll down the pier at the end of the street (Marine Park) to watch an electrical storm light up the heavens like so many fireworks. More magic!
We returned to the Vendue for a nightcap of complimentary milk and cookies. When will the magic cease?
Saturday morning we woke and grabbed a cup of coffee while we discussed our plans for the day. Made our way to the restaurant for a complimentary breakfast. Kathi had a breakfast croissant with fruit and taters and I had bananas foster french toast with fruit plus more coffee and juice. Awesome!
Fueled up, we grabbed two complimentary beach cruisers and took a ride through Marine Park and down to the Battery to look at beautiful restored historic homes along "Rainbow Row".
Fantastic architecture, flowers, landscaped alleys, towering live oaks in the parks, overflowing window boxes, meticulous church grounds and historic cemeteries. It very much reminded me of Key West for some reason.
The Pineapple Fountain in Marine Park...
The pergola in Battery Park...
Just one of many beautiful historic cemeteries....
Veteran from the Revolutionary Battle of Long Island (NY)...
We spent the rest of the day walking up and down Market and King streets peeking in the art galleries (wishing we could paper our walls with all the fabulous art!), Halloween costume shopping in the "alternative" stores up by the College of Charleston, checking out the open air bazars, grooving on Robot Candy, having great Thai food for lunch, and generally just enjoyed moseying along.
Beautiful window dressing...
Flowers, window boxes, and plants adorning every public space...
Private alleys nevertheless summoned you closer...
Beautiful old buildings at every turn...
A random wedding march following the service at one of the many historic churches. October is a favorite month for weddings in Charelston...
We made it back to the Venude for afternoon wine and cheese and then hoofed it down the street for a traditional lowcountry style meal at Poogan's Porch. Almost all the restaurants had booked all their seatings and had no reservations left, but we were told we might be served if we opted for the outdoor dining area. Duh, that's what we wanted anyway! Tourists are so crazy to eat inside when the weather's nice! We had a nice meal and took another stroll down the pier and swang on the swing and shared a few kisses before heading back for milk and cookies and then retiring.
Sunday morning we met our good friend Richard Stuhr for breakfast at the Vendue. After a leisurely breakfast, we took a stroll and Richard told us many stories about Charleston when he was growing up, the local culture, and he gave us a tour of his Circular Church before we had to depart to attend our own service.
My father's side of the family is French Huguenot and so we attended service at the local Huguenot Church. It had been recently restored and the service was very nice. Some of the songs were sung in French, and the service ended with a chorus of My Country Tis of The... After the service, I walked around the church and found markers relating to church patrons - among them George and Martha Washington and one of my ancestors - Alexander Hamilton. There was also a plaque in the lobby recounting all the US presidents that were or had ties to Huguenots. I was surprised at how many!
The Huguenot Church in Charleston...
Inside the Huguenot church...
Alexander Hamilton's marker inside the church...
After mass, we gathered our things, did a quick pass through West Ashley (our future home?), and then headed up Rt. 26 to I95, and then home again. It was good to see the girls and pick up Bodie and get settled again. But Charleston beckons. There's more to see, and redfish to catch, and neighborhoods to explore - and the wonderful Vendue with its rooftop perch.
