Monday, July 31, 2023

Italy Travel 2023: Day 6, Bolzano to Varenna (on Lake Como)


I like to get up early to see cities at first light without the crowds. And so I did with Bolzano. I walked quietly down familiar streets but found new things. Along the Via dei Portici is a beautifuk public fountain next to a more ornate one guarded by King Neptune. This is the famous Fontana Nettuno...
At the intersection with the Via Goethe, at the Piazza Erbe, the street market preparing to open...

Street art...


I thought this was ironic. In front of the South Tyrol Archeological Museum, a cold storage and logistics truck parked outside the museum where the famous "Otzi the Iceman" is housed.
Looking along the Via Museo...
Just before crossing the Ponte Talvera looking left and looking right, are two huge green park spaces stretching out before the river.


In the photo above, way in the background (follow the line of the walking path), on one of the lower ridges, you can barely make out the medieval Maretsch Castle.

The Torrente Talvera...

Monumento alla Vittoria, a circa-1928 marble monument, inspired by the ancient Arch of Janus in Rome, commemorating Italy’s victory in World War I. It's seen a a provocation by ethnic Germans and has been the object of several terrorist attacks, which is why it is now protected by a high fence.

Looking back to the east I was surprised that I had capture the famous Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Italian for "Three Peaks of Lavaredo").
These are three distinctive battlement-like peaks, in the Sexten Dolomites of northeastern Italy - probably one of the best-known mountain groups in the Alps. The three peaks are Cima Piccola ("little peak"), Cima Grande ("big peak") and Cima Ovest ("western peak"). Until 1919 the peaks formed part of the border between Italy and Austria-Hungry. Now they lie on the border between the Italian provinces of South Tyrol and Belluno and still are a part of the linguistic boundary between German-speaking and Italian-speaking majorities.

Admiring colorful architecture on the way back to the hotel...

Again on Waltherplatz...
Bolzano Cathedral is a beautiful Gothic church located right in the Piazza Waltherplatz and is the seat of the Bishop of Bolzano-Brixen. It's dedicated to Saint Nicholas, the patron saint of Bolzano.
The cathedral was built in the 12th century in the Romanesque-Gothic style, and it features a distinctive bell tower, which was added in the 15th century, and a Baroque facade, which was added in the 18th century.
Here, the beautiful and towering bronze doors, worn with use.
Madonna and the Christ child...
The Cathedral takes up a commanding presence in the Piazza.
I think I had looked at staying at the Hotel Greit; it's certainly ideally situated on the Piazza Waltherplatz.
Below and on the right is the little restaurant where we had Apertivo the night before - next to the Hotel Figl on the Piazza del Grano.
The Hotel Luna Mondschein looked quite grand and is worth a look for a stay or a meal or cocktail in their inviting gardens.
I'm always on the lookout for street art. This one is telling Americans to stay home if they have Carona virus.
I thought Kathi would enjoy seeing the market so I came back with her when it was more alive!
One last look at the Hotel Scala Stiegl before retrieving the car and heading west towards Lake Como.
I was excited because our driving route would take us along and through the Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio. Here's a view of the Forcella dell'Angelo in the southern mountains between Lasa and Oris.
Taken between Gomagoi and Trafoi the snow capped peaks of the Ortles Alps loom in the background. The range comprises the glacial area from the Passo dello Stelvio mountain pass to the Val Martello valley in South Tyrol and the Passo del Tonale pass in the Trentino. Nearly all of the mountain chain belongs to the big Stelvio National Park.


The little village of Trafoi...
Leaving Trafoi, we began the the nerve-wracking, switchback ascent to the Passo Stelvio. We crept up and up advancing around steep and blind hairpin turns as motorcycles whizzed past with no regard to oncoming traffic. This was a drive of courage and faith. Add cyclists to the mix and you've got a moto free-for-all. As you can see, there were no pictures taken between the bottom of the climb and the top!
Above, on the left you can get an idea of the road we traversed to get to the pass. At the top, there was a bustle of cafes, souvenir shops, skiers and hoards of motorcycles. I found a spot next to a snowbank to park to get some pictures.

If you looked to the right and spit, you could probably hit Switzerland.

North of the pass, you can see the Piz da las Trais Linguas meaning 'peak of the three languages'. The summit is the tripoint between the Italian regions of Lombardy and South Tyrol and the Swiss canton of Graubunden. Before WWI it was the international tripoint of Switzerland, the Kingdom of Italy and Austria-Hungary.
The mountain rim on the west side of the Passo Stelvio
Flowers among the snow...
The range that forms part of the border between Italy and Switzerland and that includes the peak "Piz Umbrail"
Below, looking south towards Monte Scorluzzo.

Working our way down past raging, glacial-fed torrents torrents.
The guide books said to stop for a meal and wine in Bormio, but we tried to find a store where we could buy wine and then get picnic food to have without sitting in a restaurant. We were having trouble finding a wine store, so kept trying to find a grocery store instead and were totally frustrated trying to use the map app on our phone. We got some snacks at a small shop and got out of Bormio frazzled.

We were also considering a stop in Chiavenna to see pre-historic art at Parco Marmitte deli Giganti, but with time lost in Bormio, we skipped this diversion and opted to spend our time enjoying Varenna instead.

We passed through Sondrio and eventually ended up in Varenna. We parked in a covered parking garage and then found our way back and down the steep steps to the Albergo Milano.

Still smiling!
Our room was in a separate building, and at the top of several flights of steep stairs, but it was very nice and we had a lovely little balcony overlooking the harbor and the lake.
Our room was in the brick red building with it's head poking up, top floor...
We discussed our ferry touring plan for the next day with our Albergo Milano host and about how to use the car ferry to get our vehicle to Bellagio the next day. She told us about some free on-street parking, with coveted spots perhaps opening up after dinner , when the day trippers left. Good intel!

We were hot and sweaty so we went in search of Apertivo! We chose Bar Il Molo.
Kathi had some berry concoction and I had a Hugo spritz with elderflower liqueur

After apertivo, I decided to try to retrieve the car and try to find the illusive free parking. I followed the narrow alleys and steps upward towards the Parcheggio Multipiano.

Devotionals, tucked away, provided the opportunity for a quick prayer and thanks.

I was successful! And I got some beautiful views of the Villa Monastero as the sun was setting on my walk back to Kathi.
I also passed the Chiesa San Giorgio...
We met in the harbor and, for all my efforts, Kathi bought me an "affogato" for dinner. It's gelato with a shot of espresso - two favorite things!
As night fell, we sought respite in our room and reveled in the scenery 
until it was impossible to stay awake any longer.