Italy 2023, Day 11: Genoa to Camogli with a side trip to San Fruttuoso

 After an enjoyable two days in Genoa, we left the city to visit a string of coastal towns south along the Ligurian sea. On the train, we joined lots of beachgoers day tripping to the beach. We arrived at our first destination, Camogli by 9:30.

The train station was in the hills above the town so we jacklegged our baggage down some stairs, admiring the tributes to the town's maritime heritage,

until finding the Hotel La Camogliese.

We couldn't check in yet, so we dumped our bags and went to explore the town. As we walked, we kept an eye out for waterfront restaurants and checked menus to think about where we would have dinner. From the perch of the promenade, the town seemed compressed, but was cute.

he pebble beach was packed with umbrellas and lounge chairs for rent and the promenade was backed with shops and places to get pizza, fried food, focaccia and gelato.

Kathi stopped to check out a local book store.

On the Via Guiseppe Garibaldi, we passed the Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta, that a divided the beach area from Camogli's harbor.

We ventured on to scope out the ferry station where we would get a boat to our afternoon destination, San Fruttuoso. This heron. striking a pose, commanded our attention.

As did this seashell framed shrine to Mary, where travelers could make an offering in exchange for a blessing to guarantee a safe trip upon the sea.

This dude seems quite at home in this little seaside nook.

We found the cruise terminal; mission accomplished.

So we backtracked to our hotel, hoping our room would be ready. We were able to check in. From our tiny balcony, we could see the sea.

Anticipating a swim, we changed into beach clothes and headed back to the ferry terminal for our day trip to San Fruttuoso, a tiny little enclave on rugged and mostly unpopulated promontory that also features the famed Portofino. The ferries are not large, holding perhaps 50-100 people.

The rides were short; we opted for a bow seat; latecomers and shade seekers chose the inside spaces.

Heading out of the harbor, we left quaint little Camogli in the rear view mirror.

And the southern part of town, with its pebble beach, came into our view.

Outside of the town, the natural landscape revealed itself and you could see why its steep, roccky terrain was relatively unpopulated.

There are trails that connect Camogli to San Fruttuoso and onward to Portofino and, if I ever return, I should like to hike them.

We did make a short stop at Porto Pidocchio where there is a cute little cafe and a trail to the hotel Stella Maris - perhaps a future base of operations. We continued along the rugged coast with its jagged points of land...

...until we caught a glimpse of the (abbey) Abbazia di San Fruttuoso, fronted by a small rocky beach. I love the single row of trees capping the ridge above the tiny town.

The Torre Doria sits atop a slab of rock jutting out into the sea.

and this geologic feature separates the main beach from the even tinier "Sunshine Beach" and it's own restaurant, La Cantina. A trail connects the two beach areas.

Kathi and I quickly grabbed a space on the free section of the beach, The "pebbles" were the size of engorged eggplants and not so compfy, but Kathi didn't mind. I sat on the edge of small wooden boat, until the heat forced us into the sea. The water was lovely; I think we kind of unknowingly snuck into the water roped off and "reserved" for the lounge renting customers. No one shoed us away, so we just acted like we owned it.

While Kathi sunbathed, I went exploring. The trail leads up into the hills and towards the abbey. I saw enough and the little restaurants were inviting so I teturned to Kathi, we took another swim in the crystalline Ligurian sea, and then hiked back up the hill for a snack and some drinks at Da Laura.

Here's a shot from inside the cafe. You can see our swimming area inside the floats (away from the free beach and the ferry terminal).

We got our drinks inside and then took some cheap seats across from the reserved waterside tables.

The ferries only come about every hour, so after a liesurely drink, we hustled back to the ferry terminal and grabbed a spot on the next departing boat. Bye bye San Fruttuoso; perhaps we'll return one day!

We got back to La Camogliese, showered, changed clothes and then went on the hunt for apertivo, searching among the narrow streets and seaside restaurants.

We found a nice spot and I opted for what was becoming my "usual", the Hugo Spritz made with elderflower liqueur while Kathi went with an Aperol spritz. We got quite the food spread here!

After apertivo, we decided to get a proper dinner. We stopped at Ristorante Camoliese, which was packed, and Kathi, being the brave one, asked if and when a waterside table might be available. We were in luck, because the mairte'd said they had just had a cancellation and that we were welcome to it. We jumped at the chance. We followed the server out of the restaurant but were puzzeled when she passed all the waterfront tables on the promenade. Instead, she led us to some stairs headed down to the beach. There in a small perch, were three exclusive tables. We were to get one of them!

Our server was delightful. She acted like we belonged there, was funny, and made every accommodation. We ordered wine and sparkling water and simply savored every moment.

Kathi ordered trophie with pesto and I ordered grilled tuna doused in sesame and poppy seeds. Buon Appetito!

We took our time, in the Italian way, chit chatted with the other exclusive diners, snapped pictures of them, and enjoyed each other's company as the sun went down.

It was a great day; a magical day! We walked back to our hotel and prepared, in anticipation, for our
next adventure - exploring Portofino.

Italy 2023, Day 10: Genoa (Day 2)

 We rose, and made our way next door and up to the rooftop of the Hotel Le Nuvole Residenza d’Epoca for breakfast - yogurt, cappuccino, fruit, sliced ham, cheese and blood orange juice - yum!

Seconds? Yes please!

After breakfast, Kathi still sick, went back to rest up for the parade. On the 24th, there is a procession from the Cathedral of San Lorenzo to the Porto Antico. People follow the Ark containing the ashes of St. John, legend states, were stolen during the Holy Crusades. When the procession arrives at the city’s Old Port, a ritual benediction takes place. In fact, the Cardinal blesses the sea and the city. Finally, the remains of the saint are taken back to San Lorenzo Cathedral and the ceremony is solemnly concluded. But that would have to wait.; I had more of the city to explore.

I think one of my guide books said I should walk down and windowshop Via Roma so that's where I headed. Along the way, I stepped into the entrance of the Palazzo Doria Spinola and was halted from going any further, but I did enjoy this ceiling art.

Just a few steps further, I came to the Piazza Corvetto with a monument to Vittorio Emanuele II, the first king of the unified Italy. Good day to you sir!

There was an elevated green space to the east, so I went to explore. Nice, but nothing remarkable except this grafiti which needed no translation.

I circled back to the Via Roma and almost stopped into a shop to look at loafers, but ti looked to fancy so I did not go in, but I did walk through the Galleria Giuseppe Mazzini to cool off a bit.

At the end of the galleria, I came upon the Teatro Carlo Felice - stone-walled theater that hosts regular opera & classical concerts.

I stayed underneath it's shaded porticos until I re-emerged in the Piazza de Ferrari. The statue is of Guiseppe Garibaldi, a military hero from the Italian unification. On one of the lamp posts was this interesting insignia; I learned it's the seal including the flag of Genoa taken from the cross of Saint George.

I was doing all this wandering and circling because I was really headed to the Palazzo Ducale to see a Van Gogh painting on display. I bought my ticket and that gave me 15 minutes alone with the masterpiece "Landscape with Wheat Sheaves and Rising Moon"

Palazzo Ducale was the palace of the "Doge", the ruler of Genoa. The painting was hung in the darkened Doge's chapel, lit in a case which made Van Gogh's colors look radiant.

The setting was quite extraordinary and the painting, engrossing. It was easy to be captivated by his brush stokes and layering of vibrant colors.

My time was quickly up, but before the next patron entered, I snapped a quick picture of the back wall of the room - Amazing!

On the way out, there was a free exhibit in one of the side galleries. This poster was part of the promotion. I liked it so I capture it.

I made for the uscita and outside the Palazzo there was a promotion for the Man Ray exhibit (which I did not take the time to visit).

I continued south and and stumbled across the mother of parking areas for scooters and motorcycles on the Via Francesco Petrarca.

Heading southeast I found the Porta Soprana - the best known gate within the ancient walled city.

Genoa has more and longer walls than any other city in Italy and Porta Soprana served as the entrance to the city for those arriving from the east, looking over the plane of Sant'Andrea. The gate's towers (closed to the public) are even more impressive from the inside.

Wandering southwest, towards the port of Genoa, I spied the the Giardini Baltimora community garden, with the towers of the Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta in Carignano in the background.

The Ponte di Carignano bridge, connecting the hill of Sarzano with Carignano, was built by the noble Sauli family as an access road to the basilica. Walking along the Via Eugenia Ravasco, the road on top of the bridge, I came across this ancient wall, tenderly landscaped.

Continuing over the bridge, it's impressive intent was revealed, behold the basilica!

With no activity, the basilica looked closed so I turned around to continue my wandering tour of Genoa. Crossing back over the Ponte di Carignano, I paused to take in the view of the harbor from this elevated vantage point.

At the intersection of the Via del Colle and Via Eugenia Ravasco, I stopped again to inspect the ancient wall. From this vantage point, I could see informational markers, so I stopped to read.

They spoke of the Barbarossa walls, built in the year 1000 to protect Genoa from the Holy Roman Emperor, Federico I, also know as "Barbarossa". According to the legends, it only took 8 days to build the main structure of the walls using the entire population of Genoa. However, it would take another eight years to finish the work. The church and the aristocracy paid for the protection.

I was inspired to try to find other sections of the wall and the other ancient entrances to the City. I had already seen the Porta Soprana. now I wanted to find the others. I really wanted to find the Porta Aurea. the "Golden Door". I blindly followed the wall, but it quickly came to a dead end. Drat! As I bactracked, I remembered I had taken a picture of a sign with a map for various walking tours through Genoa.

Tour 3 was a tour of the Medieval City so I thought I would follow that to see if more of the original wall would be revealed. Travelling towards the harbor, I came across the Oratorio S.Antonio abate alla marina e S.Giacomo delle fucine. It looked pretty buttoned up, so I did not venture inside. The doors were beautifully inscribed.

The "Tour 3" sign told me I was on the right track.

Next door was the Chiesa di San Salvatore, but it was sitting inside a fence, so not available to the public.

On a side street, the Vico Sottole Murette, I could still gaze upon this ornate devotional of Mary. I always appreciate the added flowers.

Trying to find more ancient walls and the "portas' was kind of a bust, so my next destination was the man-made waterfall in the park Villetta Di Negro. NW of the Piazza Corvetto. is this tunnel, not a "porto" that goes through the hill on which the park is found.

Working my way around to the right, I this stature dedicated to Giuseppe Mazzini. At the age of 24, he was sent into exile in 1831 for attempting a revolution in Liguria. He founded underground societies named 'Young Italy' in Marseilles and 'Young Europe' in Berne, formed to promote Italian unification: "One, free, independent, republican nation."

Here's the map of the park...

I snaked around to the left and worked my way up the hill, the waterfall just slightly visible.

I took the trail that cut across the man-made stream and got a look at the waterfall. Pretty cool in the middle of the city!

I made my way to the park's belvedere (lookout) and then back down the hill to Piazza Cappuccini. I hung a left onto the Salita delle Battistine and observed several boys entering the outwardly rough looking school (graffiti all over the building entrance and old walls), I.C. Maddalena - Bertani

I did find some heart-shaped confetti on the tiled lane and brought it home for Kathi. Continuing on, I emerged at the Piazza del Portello. Here's the tunnel going under the Villetta Di Negro park.

And turning around, I found myself back at the tunnel going under City Hall and exiting on the Largo della Zecca. To the left is the Torre detta del 'Minareto' and the lift to the Spianata Castelletto, that I had visited the day before.

This time I walked through the tunnel and followed the the Largo della Zecca to the catholic cathedral -
Santissima Annunziata del Vastato, which I had also passed the day before. This time I went in. Art-filled is an apt description!

Its famous frescoed ceiling...

A sign asked for donations, which I happily paid, to maintain the artwork and keep the lights on. The word gets used so much, it dilutes the meaning, but it truly was amazing!

The installation below is 3-D, with all the figures individually hand-crafted to set the scene in motion.

Even the side alters were amazing.

The photos below show the damage from war bombardments which devestated the basilica.

After art overload, I stepped back out into the sun and made my way towards the harbor once more, stopping to admire the historic Porta dei Vacca (the "gate of holy faith"). I learned that it was one of three built in 1155 as part of the city's defenses. Its circular towers are similar to the other surviving gate, the Porta Soprana. So I had seen the only two remaining historical gates; my search was not a bust!

Part of this historic inscription on the inside of the gate?

I started heading back to the hotel along the Via del Campo, which seemed a little sketchy. I just kept my pace up and my gaze down. I did take a quick photo of this graffiti - "not to cruise tourism" - a sentiment expressed in other ports like Key West.

This societal critique on an art poster was rather clever...

Continuing on, I past this church tucked back off the street - the Chiesa di San Luca

Close to our hotel was this church, the Chiesa di San Pietro (Saint Peter) in Banchi - chiuso (closed)

Passing Pestobene, I had to stop in for a snack! Basil is one of the foods of the gods!

I returned around 4 pm, to reunite with Kathi and make our way to the Piazza San Lorenzo for the Saint John parade. This is when his relics would be carried, along a processional route from the church to the harbor along with a number of ornate crosses collected from the local churches. Here are some of the local officals discussing logistics before the start.

We lined up along the Via San Lorenzo, and the procession started at 5 pm. To make sure we could film the procession, Kathi got on one side of the street and I was on the other.

Getting to carry the crosses must be a tremendous honor, but also a burden. They seemed incredibly heavy and prone to tipping. Each bearer was surrounded by a team of helpers to safeguard against catastrophe.

Each of the crosses was highly decorated. The ornaments that extended out from the cross would shake and make noise with each step.

It seemed that the cross bearers would pound each step and that they took pride in their ability to make the crosses come alive with movement and sound. Spectators clapped as each cross seccesive bearer passed.

Bands played a solemn tune as an announcer made comments we didn't understand. The procession continue on and the ark carrying John's remains passed.

Kathi had been having a broken English/Italian conversation with an elderly Italian woman on the other side of the street during the procession.  At the end, she squeezed Kathi's face and gave her a hug and kiss out of love and gratitude for her interest in Italian culture - magical!

We followed the crowds down to the harbor where all the cross bearers assembled while the archbishop mounted a podium.

The story goes that after his martyrdom, the Saint John's body was cremated and the Genoese came into possession of his ashes during the First Crusade in 1098. Led by Guglielmo Embriaco, they landed at Mira (or Myra), in what is now Southern Turkey, where the remains of San Nicola were also preserved. St. John's ashes were initially divided among the various ships participating in the expedition, but a storm prevented the boats from leaving until the sacred remains were gathered onto a single vessel and so they arrived triumphantly in Genoa.

Starting from 1327, recalling the miraculous departure of the ashes from Mira, people began to attribute the relics with the power to protect ships and sailors. So that from that date on, John was proclaimed patron saint of Genoa and his relics were carried in procession on his feast day (24 June). During the religious ceremonies, the Archbishop would take the vessel that contained Saint John's ashes and would bless the sea, invoking the protection of God on sailors, their ships and on the goods they carry.

After, the ceremony and the crowds began to disperse, we decided to have dinner. Since we were near Eatly, we stopped in there for a bite and enjoyed our meal as we looked out over the Porto Antico di Genova. After dinner, we tread familiar alleys back to our room, washed clothes, and prepared for our departure the next day. I thoroughly enjoyed Genoa and would highly recommend it, but we were off to discover new coastal towns along the beautiful Ligurian Sea. Our first stop, Camogli!