Day 2 of our Scandinavian holiday started with a search for breakfast.
Some of our friends that had arrived a day before us found a beautiful cafe inside a nearby hotel; the cafe was called the "Rug Bakery".
You can enter through the hotel lobby or directly from the Tietgensgade (street).
The yogurt bowl with granola was delicious! Kathi got a danish and we had a cappuccino and a macchiato. Then it was time to explore the city with the Corkys. We wound our way around Tivoli Gardens and crossed over into the Rådhuspladsen Square.
Before moving on, we hung a louie at the dragon fountain and dipped into the Copenhagen City Hall (Københavns Rådhus), built 1892-1905 and inspired by the city hall of Siena, Italy.
Inside is the Grand City Hall, used for various civic events and displays.The decor of Copenhagen's City Hall building also makes several nods to endemic flora and fauna. If you look closely, you can see sculptural details on the building of jellyfish, algae, seagulls, crows, and even polar bears that represent not just the frigid temperatures in Copenhagen but also the annexation of Greenland to the nation.
One of the wall panels...
Just before exiting, we could see the lovely city seal (with three towers), etched in stained glass.
The lovely exterior entryway... We were on a mission to find Studio Arhoj, a local pottery studio with funky ghost-themed merch. We followed the GPS directions up the Larsbjornsstraede, where charming outdoor dining options lined beautifully adorned streets. I loved the juxtaposition of this hearty tree pushing up against the vibrant corner building! Wait, what's this? The most beautiful sweet pastries we have seen!It was Sean's birthday and Toni had been carrying around a little celebratory marker so she jabbed it into Sean's danish.Turns out we had stumbled upon St. Peter's Bakery in the "latin quarter" of the city". It's the oldest in Copenhagen. Their cinnamon rolls are known as "onsdagssnegle" (Wednesday snails/cinnamon roll), which is such a popular pastry that the bakery sells no less than 4000 of them every Wednesday. Too bad we were there on a Thursday :(
The building is very old and is now protected. The black chandeliers are unique but go nicely with the floral wallpaper. We continued northeast up Sankt Peders Straedre admiring the architecture on the side streets...
and we spied the tower for Sankt Petri (Saint Peter's) church.We had to take a quick stroll around the grounds.Next, we came across the University of Copenhagen. Founded in 1479, it is the second-oldest university in Scandinavia after Uppsala University in Sweden.
It's interior courtyard was lovely. LOVE the poppies! Just growing wild...On Nörregade street, we passed by the Vor Frue Kirke (The Church of Out Lady) and had to duck in for a look. It was exquisite! The alter was very different from what I remember in Italy - clean, simple, magnificent!
Looking back towards the entrance.
Captured by a roving photographer.
Across the street was a small public square, Bispetorv, taking its name from the Bishop's House on the other side of Studiestræde. A monument in the centre of the square, inaugurated in 1943, commemorates the Reformation of Denmark. Further down the street, we spied this window art with a sign announcing this building as the future home of the Studio Arhoj, the art store Kathi was hoping to visit. Ghosts are their calling card.
Next we came across the Gammeltorv square...... and its Caritasbrønden fountain (a.k.a. the Caritas Well); it is the oldest fountain in Copenhagen, Denmark and was built in 1608 by Christian IV.
The figures above the copper basin depict the greatest of the three theological virtues, love (or charity; "caritas" in latin), symbolized by a pregnant mother with her children. The female figure sprays water from her breasts while the little boy "pees" into the basin. From 1857 to 1940, these holes were sealed, out of deference to the sensibilities of the time.Sea serpents also spray water into the well. Kind of looks like a sea robin fish similar to the one in the wall panel from the Copenhagen City Hall. I wonder if the inspiration came from a locally-caught species. Hmmm.
Hanging a left turn we merged into the crowds on the Strøget, one of the main pedestrian corridors, lined with shops and eateries.
We took another left and flanked the "Helligaandskirken", the Church of the Holy Spirit.It had a small but quaint courtyard in the back.Continuing on, we passed the Gräbrödretrov square, where Corky and Toni would stop later to get a bite to eat.Just before hanging a right on Skindergade street, more window paintings told us we had found Studio Arhoj.
Another quick right and we were there!Inside was a dizzying display of ceramics, with little ghosty pillars, bowls, plates, stickers, pins, glass pieces and other artsy items. We were kids in a candy store. After loading up on Copenhagen keepsakes, we split with the Corkills as they wanted to take a break and have lunch. Kathi and I were still pretty full from our sweets at Saint Peter's bakery so we pressed on. However, before long, we thought we should get something to tie us over until dinner, so we stopped for gelato.
Kathi got raspberry and I got pistacchio.
Making our way back to the Ströget, we stopped to admire one of the best known fountains in Copenhagen - the Storkespringvandet (Stork Fountain). The fountain was installed in 1894 and since 1950 it has been a tradition that newly graduated midwives dance around the fountain.
Looking down the Højbro plaza towards the statue of Bishop Absalon - the city's legendary founder...
When we got to his pedestal, we stopped for a rest and to plan our next moves. A frieze at the bottom of the pedestal features a school of fish and wavy lines, symbolizing Øresund, the sound that forms the Danish/Swedish border and the herring fishing which, in Absalon's day, significantly contributed to the wealth of the small fishing hamlet.
Crossing the bridge into Christianborg, we paused, looking southwest, to admire the view.
Throughout the city, I was attracted to the decorative sewer covers, loving all the simple little decorative touches.
We wandered past the Det Kongelige Biblioteks Have, the garden of the royal library, and I had to duck in for a look.It was beautiful and has the reputation as one of the most tranquil spots in the city.
Looking southeast towards the royal library.
The Library Garden is located on top of the former site of Christian IV's old Naval Harbor. The harbor was flanked by an arsenal (now housing the Tøjhus Museum) and a supply depot in 1694 and was connected to the main harbor by a narrow canal. Later the Navy was moved to Holmens Kanal and the old harbor was filled in 1867.As a reminder of its maritime past, a small pond has been retained in the middle of the gardens and an old mooring ring of the type used by ships in the 17th and 18th centuries has been built into the masonry at the end of the gardens.
A 1918 bronze statue of Soren Kierkegaard is located in the middle of the gardens. Kierkegaard appears absorbed in his own thoughts with his gaze directed towards a point on the other side of the wall where his fiancée, Regine Olesen, is said to have lived.Given that Kathi works in the local library, we circled around to enter
the Royal Library to see how it stacked up to the Meyera Oberndorf Central in Virginia Beach.
Here is the profile with the provocative "black diamond" addition - sunbathers taking full advantage of a sunny day on the terraced steps leading to the Kobenhavens Havn - an extension of the Copenhagen seaport.
After breezing through the gift shop, and being tempted by fika in the library's extensive coffee shop, I'd have to say it was pretty dramatic.
Heading up the escalator, there was an impressive piece of artwork on the ceiling.I love al the glass and light in this space!
In this alcove, a nod to the viking seafaring culture...
Students, hard at work in the library.Outside the "black diamond" addition, was the library's own unique mermaid. This location was once known as "Mermaid Bank".The statue was created by sculptor Anna Marie Carl-Nielsen in 1921, just eight years after Edvard Eriksen created the statue of The Little Mermaid.
Walking southwest, we crossed a bridge spanning the Frederiscksholm Kanal - how lovely!This is the Lille Langebro, a new bridge crossing the Københavns Havn, installed just for pedestrians and cyclists.Now on the east side of the Københavns Havn, we came across the
Havnebadet Islands Brygge, a waterfront gathering spot full of sun worshipers, kids playing games, skateboarders, etc. The park also included a harbor swimming facility with lap pools, children's pools & an area for springboard diving. The elevated platform was popular with teens demonstrating their courage while plummeting towards the cool water below.What a great city amenity!Walking north back again, we crossed the famed "Circle Bridge" - headed towards Nyhavn and a rendezvous with our friends.Looking up the Circle Bridge canal at the waterfront apartments there.
I was continually impressed by the infrastructure to accommodate cyclists. The metal track on the right side of the stairs is for guiding a bike down the steps.
Looking at the Kayak Bar as we headed into Gammelholm... 
We walked along the Havnegade Promenaden, reclaimed from 17th century navy yards, which is now a vibrant outdoor public space with parks, squares, sports facilities, trampolines, swimming and kayaking facilities and other social amenities.
Giving the tramp a try!
It's a short promenade, but part of a persistent and deliberate urban strategy to reinvigorate old developed sites throughout Copenhagen.
Located on a boat moored in the harbor is the Tipsy Mermaid.
We should have stopped for a cocktail, but we were on a mission to link up with our friends. In short order, we arrived at Nyhavn - the famous canal, lined with pretty, colorful buildings and expensive shops intermingled with an abundance of tourist tchotchke.Originally it was a commercial port where ships from all over the world would dock, and it was packed with sailors visiting its pubs, alehouses and ladies of pleasure.The famous Danish fairytale writer Hans Christian Andersen, used to live in no. 20. This is where he wrote the fairy-tales 'The Tinderbox', 'Little Claus and Big Claus', and 'The Princess and the Pea'. He also lived for twenty years in no. 67 and for two years in no. 18 – basically, wherever you walk down Nyhavn, you'll be walking in his footsteps.
Below is a terrible photo of the city's logo, but I love it!I tried mightily to find a pin of this symbol, but had no luck :(
At the west end of the Nyhavn canal, near the Hop On, Hop Off and Stromma canal tour berths was a nice little park. We stopped to have a macchiato.
Before heading back to the Next House Copenhagen hostel, I decided to empty the tank. In a subterranean, harbor bathroom, I did not expect to find such a clean and elegant facility. Ah Copenhagen.... The Apollo Bar, right off the Nyhavn canal, looked like a nice place for refreshment.
Below is that beloved logo again!
Making it back to the Next House Copenhagen, we were just in time for the afternoon happy hour and we partook in an obligatory Carlsberg beer - "Probably the best beer in the world". Such a great ad campaign.
From then on in the trip, everything we found exceptional was "probably the best in the world"
We regrouped and, since it was a pleasant evening, decided to head to Tivoli Gardens park.
It's the second oldest amusement park in the world, opening in 1843!
On the skyline we could see the "Star Flyer" tower swing from a good distance. It rises 80 meters above ground and is one of the tallest carousels in Northern Europe. There was a lot of talk among our friends about who was brave enough to give it a try.
Corky, Brian, Rebecca, and I rose to the challenge and stepped into the queue that climbed a twisting set of stairs (giving you lots of time to reconsider your decision.
After emptying our pockets of any potential projectile, we were allowed to strap ourselves in and get ready - feet up!
The carousel harness spins and ascends the tower structure.
Up it goes!
Adorned with stars, quadrants, telescopes, and planets, this celestial carousel pays homage to the Danish astronomer Tycho Brahe.
We spun around, got some great aerial views of Copenhagen and then celebrated our courageous feat of daring by buying pins that depict the ride in one of the Tivoli giftshops!
Beautiful pools and fountains, part of the Tivoli Concert Hall Gardens...
Filling my sewer plate obsession with Tivoli's unique, signature design.
The Nimb Hotel (below) with its grand restaurant, is consistently rated by Condé Nast Traveler as one of the best hotels in the world!
The Bubble Fountain in front of Nimb was designed by landscape architect Eigil Kjær. The idea for the bubbles is said to have originated during a conversation with the Danish physicist and Nobel laureate Niels Bohr. While enjoying a cup of tea and observing an aquarium, Bohr reportedly remarked that the bubbles from the oxygenator resembled an underwater fountain. In the 1960s, the landscaping around the fountain was adapted to complement Nimb’s oriental design.
Pantomimes, in the commedia dell’arte tradition, have been an integral part of Tivoli Gardens from the very beginning. The current Pantomime Theatre, constructed in 1874, is Tivoli’s oldest standing building and is now a heritage landmark. The maxim “Med Folket Fælles Glæde” (“Shared Joy with the People”), inscribed in Chinese above the stage, perfectly embodies the spirit of Tivoli Gardens.
The classic pantomime show portrays the characters Cassander (the old father), Columbine (his beautiful daughter), Harlequin (her lover) and the stupid servant Pierrot.Famished, we ducked into the Tivoli Food Hall and we scattered to find our favorite foods. Toni very cleverly arranged for one more celebration of Corky's birthday. It was late, but we really wanted to experience the gardens after dark. Finally, the late-burning, mid-summer sun began to set. Tivoli Gardens’ original entrance was a modest wooden gate flanked by ticket booths. In 1890, the grand main entrance and its adjacent buildings we see today were inaugurated.
We continued to stroll the gardens, taking in all the sights and doing our fair share of people watching.
As we circled the gardens, we caught glimpses of the Copenhagen City Hall and its towers.
Tivoli Lake was created in 1887 when the western ramparts of Copenhagen’s fortifications were demolished.
The lake was originally part of the city’s moat, as Tivoli Gardens was built outside the city walls in 1843. In those early days, guests enjoyed gondola rides, watched tightrope walkers perform over the water, and saw ships sail into Tivoli Gardens from Kalvebod Beach. From 1887 to the 1930s, Tivoli Lake hosted several major events with lifelike open-air stage sets. In 1887, the theme was Italy, in 1911 Egypt, and in 1933 a village from Java. Starting in 1908, guests could also experience a water coaster that ended with a big splash into the lake.
Designed in 1900 by Tivoli’s then-director and architect, Knud Arne Petersen, the Japanese Pagoda originally served as an illuminated tower. Its 2,800 colourful, ornate glass lamps illuminate the night, casting a beautiful reflection on Tivoli Lake. Inspired by Eastern aesthetics, the pagoda’s architecture blends elements of Japanese and Chinese pagodas and temples. Once known as the Chinese Pagoda, it first housed a tearoom, later offering both Danish and Asian cuisine. Today, the Japanese Pagoda hosts a rotating series of pop-up restaurants where renowned chefs serve Michelin-starred cuisine from around the world.
Walkways off the main promenade offer respite and this one featured decorative stained glass lamps, hiding among the trees, named the "sun light swarm". They are made of bronze with panels of dichromatic glass and mirrors to cast colorful beams that change with the light conditions, orientation and weather.
Captivated by the unique atmosphere and charm of Tivoli Gardens, Walt Disney visited the Gardens both before and after the 1955 opening of Disneyland in California. He was eager to understand the secrets behind Tivoli’s enchanting ambiance, hoping to recreate that magic in his own amusement park.
The "Flying Suitcase" is a ride taking children on a flight through Hans Christian Andersen's world-famous tales - the Pig Boy, the Princess and the Pea, the Ugly Duckling and the Snow Queen. I liked this guy; makes me want to be a kid again!
We continued to walk around, the lights just starting to give us a glimpse of their nighttime grandeur.
On Tik Tak (below), a giant clock ticks overhead, an hourglass flips, a compass swings. When this ride ends, you’ll step back into the Gardens with a lingering sense of joyful disorientation.In this part of the gardens, ice cream, beer, waffles, hot dogs, and games of chance all beckon with equal ferocity.
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We had some bad experiences with airline connections, so this time we drove to Dulles and took a direct flight on Scandinavian Airlines. We parked in the economy parking lot; it was cheaper then renting a car both ways and this way there would be not waiting around before the drive after a long flight.
