2018 Italy Vacation, Day 7, Sienna: The Palio

The history of the Palio dates back to the 1400s and some believe has it roots as a type of mock battle between the rival districts in Sienna.  The bloody and destructive competition found in jousts may have transferred to the also popular horse races and in the 1500s Palios began as horse races (no jockeys) run in a straight line starting outside the city, running through the streets, and ending at the Cathedral of Saint Boniface.    The prize given to the winning horse was a "Pallium" - an expensive piece of cloth.

In the 16th century, the Sienese carried out "bull hunts" inside the Piazza del Campo with each district, or Contrada, representing itself with large floats bearing their distinctive insignia and preceded by groups of men on foot or on horseback while each group carried the flag of the Contrada.  Later, races with buffaloes, the "Bufalate", started to appear.  Soon after, the buffaloes were ridden by jockeys who tried to control their movements with a device attached to their nostrils.  The last buffalo race took place in 1650 while the Contradas were already engaged in horse races in the Piazza del Campo - in the round instead of the earlier races in a straight line.  

And so, the modern Palio was born - with a race track built in the Piazza, parades and pageantry to honor the Contradas, horses with mounted riders making three laps around the outer perimeter, and the winning horse (with or without its mounted rider!) receiving a beautiful tapestry to honor the its Contrada.  

There are two Palios; one on July 2 and the other on August 16th.  Because it is such a beloved tradition for the Sienese, they have a saying that winter starts on August 17th, starting the long wait until the next Palio.

After our morning at the Duomo an Baptistery, we ducked into a street-side cafe for a late lunch before taking our place on the infield of the Campo.  As we sat and ate, the Standard Bearers of the Republic marched by in preparation for the official Palio procession.  They represent the lands, Cities, Castles, Jurisdictions, and Vicariates which remained loyal and gave assistance to Siena in exile in Montalcino after its fall to Florence in 1555.

 As we walked to the Piazza del Campo, the flags of the 17 Contradas were prominently displayed.

Around 4 pm , when we tried to enter the Il Compo on the west side, where we had entered the day before, we found guards blocking the entrance,  We tried the next potential entry point, and again we were told that the Campo was closed.  Now were were starting to panic along with countless others that were trying the same maneuvers.  We had heard because of safety considerations, the allowable crowds in the Campo were going to be significantly reduced and we were fearful that we would be excluded.  We frantically moved around the Campo, following a stream of partiers until we saw the stream moving towards the Campo at Via Di Salicotto,  Our backpacks were searched and I was told I couldn't bring my water bottle in.  It turns out they wanted everyone to patronize the vendors inside the Campo.  I stashed the water bottle hoping it would be there on the way out and we stepped into the open sunlight of the Campo.

It was early and not too crowded so we took up our position in the NE corner of the Campo where we could see a long straightaway of the horse race. 

We waited for several hours, until the procession started.  First up was the entry of a squad of Carabinieri.  

The pads in the background are to protect horses and their bareback jockey from injury as many jockeys fall off their horses while careening around the tight corners and narrow track.  Jockeys will also sometimes whip other jockeys and their horses to gain advantage.  It's no holds barred at the Palio!

After the Carabinieri, in comes the mace bearers and the standard bearers of the City Council...

... followed by the Drummers, Trumpeters, and Musicians of the Palazzo...


... followed by the standard bearer of the Captain of the Republic.

In came the Suppressed Contrada - 7 knights with grooms, lance and visors shut, representing the Contrada that have been in existence since the 17th century, but whose territories have been incorporated into the existing Contrada.

 Look at the beautiful horse representing my chosen Noble Contada of Nicchio.  He's ready to run!

Flag tossers for the Captain Contrada of Onda...

 Honorary Sienese on the infield with 40,000 of our new-found friends...

Flag tossers for all 17 Contradas...

Ready for the race to begin...

After all the processions, pageantry, and tradition, the crowd was ready for racin'!  After about 30 minutes of false  and bluff starts, resetting the race start, and the growing frustration and moans from the crowd, the race finally started!

A link to our Palio videos including the full race can be found on my Vimeo site here:  https://vimeo.com/286689419

After the Drago Contrada's horse crossed the finish line first, the crowd erupted!  We quickly made our way to the exit, I picked up my water bottle from where I stashed it (miracle), and we made our way back to the parked car.  On the way, we passed the folks from the winning Contrada marching triumphantly with the Palio to the Basilica of Santa Maria in Provenzano.

We retrieved the car and beat feet out of Siena - enough excitement for the day.  After a google maps detour through a hay field in the pitch black, we found out way home and Kathi cooked up some nice pasta topped with some wonderful fresh Parmesan cheese.  We washed clothes and went to bed dreaming of horses, three times around, and dragons.


 

2018 Italy Vacation, Day 7: Sienna, Duomo & Bapistry

We woke up early at the agriturismo and finally wised up and ordered cappuccino in the kitchen rather that accept the regular coffee offered with the breakfast spread.  

On the way, we snuck past the farm's three-legged cat who was napping in the morning sun on one of the inside tables.

Today we would see the famed Pailo!  But first, we will tour Sienna's famous Duomo and Baptistery.

On the way down our dirt road, we stopped to pay tribute to the Agriturismo's horses before attending the Palio.

We drove back to Sienna and left the car at the Parcheggio San Franscesco lot.  Because we were early, we had no trouble finding a spot without a wait.


Many of the tourist destinations close early for the Palio so we hurried straight away to the Duomo to explore the cathedral and the Baptistery.

On the way, we stopped at the Piazza Tolomei to check out the Chiesa di San Cristoforo Catholic Church.  

Inside, a simple but beautiful devotional...

The alter was equally beautiful.  I can't imagine going to mass every week in such a setting.  So inspirational!  I have to confess, it puts our modern American churches to shame.  

Onward to the Piazza del Duomo!  Arriving in the Piazza San Giovanni, we were first confronted by the Battistero Di San Giovanni (the Baptistery)

We navigate through the passageway on the left, up the steps, and through the arch to reach the Piazza del Duomo.

The Duomo was built during Siena's heyday in the 13th century and is a tribute to the Virgin Mary.  The tower is six stories tall and looks even taller because of an optical illusion:  the marble strips get narrower toward the top making it look even further away.

The lower story was built in the Romanesque style with round arches over the doors and topped with the new Gothic style that was gaining influence from France. 

The upper story, designed and built a century later,  is full-blown Gothic.

The amount of detail on the facade is mind-blowing!

One of the doors...

Inside, the floor is inlaid with marble including this depiction of Romulus and Remus, the mythical founders of Rome.  Legend has it that Remus' son Senio rode north on a black horse to found the city of Siena.  In this panel, Siena is the center of the universe, orbited by the lesser cities of Pisa, Rome, Florence, Lucca, etc.

The nave includes the heads of 172 popes who reigned from the time of St. Peter in the 12th Century.  The nave is flanked by tons of stripped panels, capped by an ornate dome, and flooded with light from the large stained glass window above the alter.

 The vaulted ceiling above the nave...

The cathedral's massive organ...

The magnificent dome of the cathedral...

While Kathi toured the nave of the Duomo. I climbed the Puerto Del Cielo, aka the door to the sky!  It was almost too much to take in or comprehend.

On the tour, we were shown these preserved original design and art sketches - like the pencil notes on a 2" X 4" lumber house frame.

Views of the upper stories from an elevated perspective...

Looking down and getting an appreciation of the marble inlaid floors...

Looking down the nave of the cathedral through one of the decorative railings...

We emerged at one of the outside viewpoints and the city of Siena lay bare before us.  The tower in the photo below is part of the Civic Museum, the seat of the city government.  It's 330 feet tall, one of the tallest secular towers in Italy, and stands as a symbol of Siena's independence from the papacy and the Roman empire.

Unfortunately, by the time we got there it was closed for the Palio and its jewels will have to wait for discovery on our next trip.

After Florence started its grand cathedral in 1296, rival Siena planned to build an even bigger one, the biggest in all Christendom.  With its hilly terrain and a lack of flat land, the Sienese decided to expand the Duomo site.  The unfinished wall and windows in the photo below hint at the vision, but the plague in 1348 killed the city's ability to complete the project.  Many Sienese saw the Black Death as a sign from God, punishing them for their pride. 

 The large building in the photo below is the Basilica Cateriniana San Domenico.  

Ducking back into the Duomo, we were treated with views of the arches and the Duccio di Buoninsegna stained- glass rose window above the alter.  It was created in 1288 and is dedicated to the Virgin Mary

Adjusting the exposure level on the camera, the design of the window comes through...

 Looking back through the nave towards the front door....

Looking up...

Finally descending, I was intrigued by the drainage features carved into the stone spiral stairs.  Should water get in on the staircase, it's captured and piped outside.  I would like to see the Duomo in the rain with water pouring out these spouts everywhere.

 Back on the first floor, I rejoined Kathi and we marveled at the main alter and its surroundings. 

The half-dome above the alter...

The ornate seats behind the alter.  As an alter boy, we never had it this good!

Heading back to the front of the cathedral, on the right side is the Piccolomini Library.  The frescoes, each framed with an arch, were painted by Pinturicchio between 1454 and 1513 to celebrate the life of one of Siena's hometown boys, Aeneas Piccolomini, who went on to become Pope Pius II.

 

The frescoes were impressive, but what captured my attention was the brilliant, gold drenched ceiling lit by the sun streaming in the window.  Not a bad place to curl up with a good book!

Across the nave, we were drawn to explore the Chapel of the Madonna del Voto, aka the Fabio Chigi Chapel (named after Pope Alexander VII).  It contains the sculptures of Mary Magdalene an Saint Jerome by the Baroque sculptor Bernini.

The painting over the alter is the Madonna del Voto, a Madonna and baby Jesus adorned with real crowns of gold painted in the orthodox style of the time.  Her head is tilted and she looks out as if to hear the prayers of the faithful.  This is the Mary to whom the Palio is dedicated and dear to the hearts of the Sienese.

The dome above the chapel...


Along the nave we found this font in the chapel of St. John the Baptist ...

... and the spectacular dome above the chapel.

The alter below was commissioned by Francesco Piccolomini, Pope Pius III, as a memorial to his uncle, Pius II.  Michelangelo was contracted to do 15 statues for the alter, but he personally only finished the one of St. Paul (lower right).  St. Paul has the broken nose of the sculptor and the relaxed hand oh his David.

 A closeup of the mantel above the alter...

So much to see at the Duomo; it's easy to reach visual overload.  We headed outside for a cleansing of of visual palette while we made our way to the Baptistery entrance.

The Battistero was definitely worth a visit.  Perhaps most popular is its marble baptismal font designed by Jacopo della Quercia with its bronze panels by Quercia, Ghiberti, and Donatello.  It was built in the 1420s. 

 

Above the font was the exquisitely painted vaulted ceiling. It contains twelve scenes depicting the Twelve Articles of the Christian Faith painted by Lorenzo di Pietro (known as Vecchietta) between 1447 and 1450. 

I loved this beautiful alter piece (below) with the Madonna at its center and a small depiction of the Annunciation above her. 

This was one of Kathi's favorites.

I thought this was an odd tiled section of the floor for a baptistery, and yet here it was.

Perhaps more appropriate, artwork depicting St. John baptizing Christ...

Another beautifully ornate alter in the Baptistery...

Kathi also like this Pieta' by Antonio Buonfigli (1680-1750)

We saw so much, but only scratched the surface of the Duomo and the Baptistery.  Amazing!  But now it was time to turn away from Siena's faith-based attractions and turn our attention to the more  bellicose side of the Sienese culture - the Palio!