2018 Italy Vacation, Day 7, Sienna: The Palio

The history of the Palio dates back to the 1400s and some believe has it roots as a type of mock battle between the rival districts in Sienna.  The bloody and destructive competition found in jousts may have transferred to the also popular horse races and in the 1500s Palios began as horse races (no jockeys) run in a straight line starting outside the city, running through the streets, and ending at the Cathedral of Saint Boniface.    The prize given to the winning horse was a "Pallium" - an expensive piece of cloth.

In the 16th century, the Sienese carried out "bull hunts" inside the Piazza del Campo with each district, or Contrada, representing itself with large floats bearing their distinctive insignia and preceded by groups of men on foot or on horseback while each group carried the flag of the Contrada.  Later, races with buffaloes, the "Bufalate", started to appear.  Soon after, the buffaloes were ridden by jockeys who tried to control their movements with a device attached to their nostrils.  The last buffalo race took place in 1650 while the Contradas were already engaged in horse races in the Piazza del Campo - in the round instead of the earlier races in a straight line.  

And so, the modern Palio was born - with a race track built in the Piazza, parades and pageantry to honor the Contradas, horses with mounted riders making three laps around the outer perimeter, and the winning horse (with or without its mounted rider!) receiving a beautiful tapestry to honor the its Contrada.  

There are two Palios; one on July 2 and the other on August 16th.  Because it is such a beloved tradition for the Sienese, they have a saying that winter starts on August 17th, starting the long wait until the next Palio.

After our morning at the Duomo an Baptistery, we ducked into a street-side cafe for a late lunch before taking our place on the infield of the Campo.  As we sat and ate, the Standard Bearers of the Republic marched by in preparation for the official Palio procession.  They represent the lands, Cities, Castles, Jurisdictions, and Vicariates which remained loyal and gave assistance to Siena in exile in Montalcino after its fall to Florence in 1555.

 As we walked to the Piazza del Campo, the flags of the 17 Contradas were prominently displayed.

Around 4 pm , when we tried to enter the Il Compo on the west side, where we had entered the day before, we found guards blocking the entrance,  We tried the next potential entry point, and again we were told that the Campo was closed.  Now were were starting to panic along with countless others that were trying the same maneuvers.  We had heard because of safety considerations, the allowable crowds in the Campo were going to be significantly reduced and we were fearful that we would be excluded.  We frantically moved around the Campo, following a stream of partiers until we saw the stream moving towards the Campo at Via Di Salicotto,  Our backpacks were searched and I was told I couldn't bring my water bottle in.  It turns out they wanted everyone to patronize the vendors inside the Campo.  I stashed the water bottle hoping it would be there on the way out and we stepped into the open sunlight of the Campo.

It was early and not too crowded so we took up our position in the NE corner of the Campo where we could see a long straightaway of the horse race. 

We waited for several hours, until the procession started.  First up was the entry of a squad of Carabinieri.  

The pads in the background are to protect horses and their bareback jockey from injury as many jockeys fall off their horses while careening around the tight corners and narrow track.  Jockeys will also sometimes whip other jockeys and their horses to gain advantage.  It's no holds barred at the Palio!

After the Carabinieri, in comes the mace bearers and the standard bearers of the City Council...

... followed by the Drummers, Trumpeters, and Musicians of the Palazzo...


... followed by the standard bearer of the Captain of the Republic.

In came the Suppressed Contrada - 7 knights with grooms, lance and visors shut, representing the Contrada that have been in existence since the 17th century, but whose territories have been incorporated into the existing Contrada.

 Look at the beautiful horse representing my chosen Noble Contada of Nicchio.  He's ready to run!

Flag tossers for the Captain Contrada of Onda...

 Honorary Sienese on the infield with 40,000 of our new-found friends...

Flag tossers for all 17 Contradas...

Ready for the race to begin...

After all the processions, pageantry, and tradition, the crowd was ready for racin'!  After about 30 minutes of false  and bluff starts, resetting the race start, and the growing frustration and moans from the crowd, the race finally started!

A link to our Palio videos including the full race can be found on my Vimeo site here:  https://vimeo.com/286689419

After the Drago Contrada's horse crossed the finish line first, the crowd erupted!  We quickly made our way to the exit, I picked up my water bottle from where I stashed it (miracle), and we made our way back to the parked car.  On the way, we passed the folks from the winning Contrada marching triumphantly with the Palio to the Basilica of Santa Maria in Provenzano.

We retrieved the car and beat feet out of Siena - enough excitement for the day.  After a google maps detour through a hay field in the pitch black, we found out way home and Kathi cooked up some nice pasta topped with some wonderful fresh Parmesan cheese.  We washed clothes and went to bed dreaming of horses, three times around, and dragons.