Monday, September 3, 2018

2018 Italy Vacation, Day 8: Montepulciano


After the excitement of the Palio, we woke up to a new day, with an empty slate, but plenty of anticipation about our impending tours of the wine regions of Montipilciano and Montalcino.

We spied the cats as they relaxed or prowled the perimeter of the property.


This one was overseeing the entire operation...

After a lovely, cappuccino-filled country breakfast, we hopped in the car and set out.  On our trip through the countryside we stopped to admire the region's beauty and the rolling Tuscan hills.

At one point, the road was blocked by a building wall that was in danger of falling across the country lane.  We were detoured around the back of the building, ad it struck me that it looked a lot like a farm building.  So I parked the car for a moment, crept through the overgrown vegetation and peered through one of the open windows.  Low and behold, the interior animal stalls lay before me.  A glimpse into an older time...
All along our route, majestic villas dotted the hills and surrounding landscape.
One can't help but admire the beautiful Tuscan countryside...



The classic cypress-lined drives...

Verily, we arrived at the Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore, a Benedictine abbey known for having a treasure trove of frescos and an inlaid wood choir built by Fra Giovanni da Verona. 

The entrance to the abbey is over this bridge that crosses over a protective moat. 
Here's the view from the inside looking out...
As we descended from the entrance along a tree-lined road, this small octagonal building, what I assumed was a chapel or baptistery, appeared on our right.


A small devotional on the property...

 We continued down the hill amid reminders to be quiet and respectful to the practicing monks and their daily routines. 
This beautiful mosaic greeted us upon entering the abbey.
Continuing inside we found the abbey's great cloister decorated with an abundance of frescoes, the monks reminding us of the abbey's active use.

In 1419 the abbot of the monastery commissioned the famous artist Luca Signorelli to paint the cloister with scenes from the life of St. Benedict.  Signorelli completed only a third of the frescos needed, so the abbot commissioned Il Sodoma to complete the work. 



In this scene, a deceased monk surfaces from his grae each night because he has sinned by lying to St. Benedict (in the blue and orange robe).  He places a communion host on the body, symbolizing hope for rebirth. 

A shaved-headed Benedict goes into the wilderness to meditate.  His hermit-monk mentor lowers food to him in a basket with a rope.  The devil trows a rock to break the basket's bell so Benedict won't know there's food for him to eat.
Benedict begins his missionary work by attempting to convert shepherds.
I show this close up image from the last picture because we frequently saw these same black and white birds around the agriturismo in Asciano.  Kinda cool!
The Archangel Michael chases away a woman in a see-through negligee (but with horns and clawed-feet) who was tempting Benedict.  Benedict tries to forget his fantasies and regain his self control by stripping and throwing himself into a patch of poison ivy! 
The devil vanquished...
 Above the Refectory, lies the abbey's library - worth a visit in its own right.
 Old books, secured behind wire, were falling apart.  I have yet to try to translate their titles.
Continuing up another flight of stairs, leads one into this other chamber where scientific equipment was displayed highlighting early experiments in alchemy that were conducted at these centers for learning. 
 I was taken by this drawing of the structure we passed walking down the hill towards the abbey.  
 This scene shows a relatively open landscape, perhaps shortly after the building was built, in comparison to its current setting among the dense trees.


The main alter in the church adjacent to the abbey was magnificent in white.

Sunlight streaming in from the dome above...

The side alters were beautiful beyond belief!  This one featuring a painting of St. Bendict.



This is the alter flanked by the famous wood choir benches made by the "Michelangelo of Wood", Fra Giovanni da Verona. 

Anxious to get to Montepulciano, we hastened back to the car and pointed the VW to the east.  As we wound around the hills, we go a final glimpse of the  Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore.
We continued on through the heart of Tuscany and the area known as the Crete Sinesi - rolling hills topped with cypress-lined estates and rustic stone farmhouses, olive groves, wheat fields, and clay outcroppings.





We Parked up agains tthe City walls, walked through the Poggio fanti Gardens, and then entered Montepulciano via the Porta al Prato.
We walked uphill until we encountered the Saint Agostino Catholic Church.  As with som many other churches, once inside, its grandeur was impressive.
We lit candles, said prayers, and paid our respects.  The main alter was simple and elegant.
As noted in other churches, there's not too much privacy in the confessional!  Only the priest is anonymous.  Bless me father....
In this devotional niche, Mary is reflecting on the death of Jesus and feeling as if a number of swords have pierced her heart.  Very graphic, but it tells the story to a congregation that probably was illiterate.
Continuing up the hill we came upon the Jesuit Church of Gesu.

The beauty of its main alter was matched by the the side chapels - decorated with 3-D images painted on flat surfaces.

As we climbed the hill through Montepulciano, we liked peeking into all the side streets and marvelled at the bridged reinforcements to its medieval building walls.

On our way to the Piazza Grande, we stopped in to visit the Contucci Contina wine shop an thier cellars.

 
These barrels contained their and the town's famous Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano!
The Contucci family is one of the oldest in Montepulciano and have lived there continuously since the 11th century.  These wine cellars were built in the 13th century and are the only place their wines are aged.  Kathi and I got a personal tasting and quite an education and ended up buying two bottles (one to drink and one to bring home).  

Next, we made our way into the Piazza Grande where City Hall and the Duomo reside.  The cathedral was built between 1586 and 1680; its unfinished facade never got its marble veneer, but step inside and it's beautiful!

Unfortunately, the celebrated Triptych of the Assumption behind the alter was under wraps while we were there.
One of the pieces of the funerary monument of Bartolomeo Aragazzi built between 1427 and 1436. 
An evocative side chapel in the cathedral.
An alter of polychrome marble of Mazzuoli di Siena (1683).  The main painting is a Madonna and Child, a favorite theme in a Tuscan city devoted to the Virgin Mary.

I read somewhere that the skulls are a symbol of Adam and the failings of man.  Don't know if it's true, but it was curious to see them in many of the Tuscan churches.
The 15th century painting of Madonna and Child  by Sano di Pietro.
Never missing an opportunity to get a rooftop view, I bought a 5 euro ticket to climb the Palazzo Communale (City Hall) tower.  Here they are looking down.
The cathedral was built on the site of the previous ancient parish church of Santa Maria.  The only remaining structure from the previous building is the sturdy 15th century bell tower.
From a little higher, you get a great view of the countryside beyond.
From the heights, the town of Montepulciano lies out before you including a view of its vast surrounding landscapes.

Behind the cathedral and hiding among the clump of trees in the middle of the picture is the Fortezza.  The Orcia Valley lies beyond; alas it was too overcast to see Mont Amiata.
In the middle ground is the Chiesa de San Biagio (church of San Biagio).

Descending from the tower, I rejoined Kathi and we walked back down the hill, stopping to admire the side streets as we went.
I loved seeing the attention to doorways and their aesthetic. 
An ivy-covered garage...
Outside of town, Kathi lends a motorist a hand.  No wonder these vehicles get 90 mpg.
Wrapping up our visit to Montepulciano, we stopped by the church of San Biagio. 
It was designed by Antonio da Sangallo and built of locally quarried travertine.  
 
It is impressive as it stands with a commanding presence at the edge of the Chiana Valley.

We were anxious to continue on to Montalcino so we did not go inside.  So on we plunged back into the Tuscan countryside and headed west, through Pienza and San Quirico d'Orcia towards our next destination.

On to Montalcino!






























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