On day nine of our Italian vacation, we rose, got dressed and ambled across the terrace and down the stairs for another sumptuous breakfast. All the wiser, we first ordered our cappuccino and it arrived before we even returned with our plates full of cheese, pastry and cakes, bacon, and other delights.
For our fifth day in Tuscany, we decided to visit the town of Cortona. From Asciano, we headed east, through San Gimignanello, and then onto the autostradale (highway) to the SP32 exit, through the village of Appalto, through the countryside to Le Fosse, through Camucia and into the foothills below Cortona.
Along the way we stopped to admire the Italian country estates.
Views of the fertile valleys of Tuscany...
... and the fields of sunflowers.
Climbing up towards Cortona, we parked the VW near the Porta Colonia entrance. In addition to the standard daypack with raincoat, water bottle, sunscreen, and other items, we also brought a picnic lunch in the handy sack LR made from a Keep Norfolk Beautiful t-shirt.
The ancient Etruscan walls that surround Cortona, looking towards the Piazza Del Duomo.
We entered through the city walls and into the Piazza Mazzini.
and Kathi immediately made a new friend.
I'm, enchanted by Italian windows and doors - so welcoming.
Walking along the city wall and the Via delle Mura del Duomo, we arrived at the Piazza Del Duomo and were struck by this bronze statue of a man and a woman intertwined, arms outstretched, branches emerging and leafed out.
We entered the Catholic Church - the Duomo di Cortona. Looking down the length of the nave, with it's beautiful white columns, arches, and decorated ceiling - the interior was quite stunning!
A close up of the alter...
Kathi, wrapped in her "shawl skirt" out of respect, paid a tribute and said a prayer at this devotional to the Mother Mary and baby Jesus.
Each of the devotionals was quite striking. This is the Crucifix by Andrea Sellari.
The Madonna del Pianto
Across the Piazza, we toured the Diocesan Museum. It contains some of the best artwork from the town's churches including the Annunciation (1430) by Fra Angelico.
The angel asks if Mary will bear God's son. The angel's words are in the top and bottom lines, Mary's response, consenting yes, are upside down (logically, since it's directed to God who would be reading while looking down from heaven.
In the same room lies this triptych (1436) of the Madonna and Child also painted by Fra Angelico.
This alterpiece is from the thirteenth century church of Santa Margherita and portrays Santa Margherita da Cortona with scenes from her life (dated 1298-99) made only a year after her death. The panel was made for the Monastery of Santa Chiara, and is the oldest known representation of the Blessed Margherita.
Heading downstairs to the lower refectory...
There is a vault with frescoes (1545) by Giorgio Casari, the architect and painter who designed the Uffizi in Florence. On the alter is a circa 1500 painted terracotta pieta.
Leaving the Diocesan Museum, we continued up through the Piazza Franciolini and into the Piazza Luca Signorelli. Since we had toured the Etruscan Museum in Volterra, we skipped the Etruscan Museum in Cortona (even though Cortona was a large Etruscan center), and proceeded on to the Piazza della Republica.
The shopkeepers knew where to put the boxes and baskets of pasta to entice us inside...
The town square since Etruscan times, the piazza is dominated by its City Hall and grand staircase.
It seemed like as good a spot as any, so we unpacked our provisions and enjoyed our picnic on the steps of City Hall.
This is the way lunch is supposed to happen, eaten slowly, savoring the the cheese, the meat, the fruit, the bread, with a good wine buzz and a splash of frizzante! After the meal, we lazily ambled up the Via Nazionale and poked our heads into the narrow alleyways to catch a glimpse of life off the beaten tourist path.
With an ever watchful eye, I discovered more creative street art, even in the ancient Etruscan city of Cortona.
Here is a poster advertising hikes sponsored by the Etruscan Museum. The middle offering advertises a hike along the city walls of Cortona with stops to taste Etruscan cuisine. Next time for sure!
The streets of Cortona were less populated with tourists and we enjoyed the freedom the light traffic afforded.
We arrived at the Piazza Garibaldi where Kathi stopped to relax under the trees while I explored about.
Looking down the Via Gino Severini and onto the Tuscan countryside beyond. Cortona lies at the edge of Tuscany, the last town in Charlemagne's empire and the last under the Medici rule; Umbria is just about one mile away.
We were outside the city walls, now peaceful and manicured, you could get an appreciation of how formidable they must have appeared during Etruscan times 2,500 years ago.
Along the wall was a tribute to Leonardo da Vinci and his ideas that led to flight.
Within a few steps, I arrived at the Catholic Church - Chiesa di San Domenico, completed in 1438.
It was built outside the city walls near where the Porta Peccioverardi once stood. The stone brick lacks the customary plaster veneer, but the peaked portal and single small oculus brighten the interior nave with elaborate side alters.
The main alter piece is a triptych by Lorenzo di Niccolo depicting the Coronation of the Virgin, the Annunciation, and the Crucifixion donated by Cosomo I de'Medici in 1440.
Here's an example of one of the many exquisite lateral alter pieces - Madonna with Angels by Luca Signorelli.
Just behind the church is the public park Parterre, with its fountain with twin dolphin riders.
The park was a lovely space and I could image spending quiet afternoons here reading, sharing a picnic, and enjoying the company of friends.
I must get more rectangular clay pots!
At the entrance to the park is a monument for all the Cortonese ho had fallen in war. Such a beautiful sculpture and image.
Rejoining Kathi, we made our way back through the untrammeled streets of Cortona ...
... and retrieved the car for the short drive to the Church of Santa Margherita, dedicated to a Franciscan nun and canonized saint (in 1728) of Cortona.
The interior, columns, and ceiling were all exquisitely decorated. The main alter displays her "incorrupt" embalmed body.
A nun maintaining the candles for the devotionals inside the church.
The church's beautiful dome.
One of the side alters...
The shroud of Turin on display?!!!!
A quiet bench sits outside the transept.
Behind the church is a bell tower and monastery of the Franciscan Order overlooking the beautiful Tuscan farms, fields, and orchards below.
I love the clay pots.
We hopped in the car and drove up the winding road above the Basilica to the Fortezza del Girifalco.
Kathi waited under the shade of the trees while I climbed the tower to walk the ramparts of the fort walls.
Looking out at the countryside as I go...
Climbing higher and looking down at the Basilica di Santa Margherita below.
Climbing up several floors, I was able to gain access to the fortress' ramparts for sweeping views of the surrounding Valdichiana (Chiana valley).
The fortress was built between the fifth and sixth century BC and commissioned by the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Cosomo I de'Medici. The castle sits on the ruins of a similar fortress from the Etruscan, Roman, and medieval periods, but it was repeatedly looted and sacked during the wars with Arezzo (prior to Italy's unification).
The Valdichiana...
Looking back to the south...
Looking to the east along the ancient wall of the city and into the Valdichiana.
It was mid afternoon and Kathi wanted me to see Assisi, so we made a hasty retreat from Cortona although I got the feeling we only scratched the surface of this lovely town. I would definitely come back to enjoy it at a slower pace.
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