Italy 2023, Day 15: Riomaggiore to Levanto to Milan

We woke up early and showered before breakfast. We descended down the steep stone steps and bought crema croissants at Il Maggiore and then found cappuccino at “Nonna Vittoria Cafe and Bistrot". We enjoyed the cool quiet streets before most of Riomaggiore stirred. Freeing up one of the few outside tables, we paid and climbed back up to the room, packed and descended the stairs for the last time (this trip). I struggled to get the key deposit to work (a sign) but it finally swallowed our key forcing us to leave.

We boarded the morning train to Levanto, where we would have to change to a regional train service that would take us to Milan. We made it to Levanto easily enough, but the earlier connecting train was full, so we would have to wait a couple of hours. Kathi watched the bags while I took a turn walking around and rekindling our fond memories of Levanto.

I walked down the Corso Roma until it intersected with the Ligurian Sea at Spiaggia Levanto. Here's the beach looking north...

... and south

All the little towns along the coast seem to have signs that show the paths connecting them to their surroundings. Here's Levanto's ...

Umbrellas and beach lounges all at the wait...

I walked down the Corso Italia and window shopped. I visited the surf shop, but didn't see anything that compelled me to buy (and not look like a poser). I walked up theVia D. Alighieri, passing the Piazza Generale Staglieno where Kathi and I had danced to a band in 2018 - such memories! I saw the little shop, the Pesto Laboratory, where she purchased her mortar and pestle and another kitchen store selling spices and herbs that I knew Kathi would be interested in. I climbed back up to the train station and took my turn watching the bags while Kathi ducked down into Levanto to check out the kitchen store.

After a while, she returned but I was disappointed that she had returned empty handed; likewise, she hadn't found any must haves. Eventually, we boarded the 1 pm train to Milan. We arrived at the Centrale train station around 4:15.

It took us a few minutes to get our bearings but we got headed in the right direction and jumped on the next trolly heading to the Canal District in Milan where we would spend our last evening in Italy.

The trolly was slow, but eventually we made it to the Navigli canal district, which some claim is the most charming and vibrant area of Milan. The crowds were certainly there!

We found our room at Ritorno alle Origini Suites, which was situated in a building occupying a prime spot along the canal, but our room's window faced a small private courtyard so we could sleep without being disturbed by the revelry the area was known for.

We dumped our bags and went out to walk along the canal.

Naviglio Grande is a canal between Milan and the Ticino River. Along the canal, there is a host of small restaurants souvenir shops and street vendors with their trinkets on carts or laid directly on the ground. On our tour, we paused to take the quintessential selfie on one of the bridges crossing the canal.

After coursing up and down the canal, we finally picked a spot for apertivo. We had to share a communal table to get a seat, but as soon as a private table opened up, we jumped for it. Kathi and I both opted for a Hugo spritz with elderflower liquor.

We sipped our spritzes but I have to confess, I wasn't digging the vibe. It all seemed too crowded and rushed and seemed to lack the intimacy that we had found is so many other towns. I'll admit it, that should not be unexpected, but it just shows my preferences for the small Italian towns over the big cities. We walked around a bit more, and then crossed the canal to find a recommended restaurant for dinner - El Brellin

Just outside the garden terrace was the Vicolo dei Levandai, the historical alley where washerwomen would bring their clothes and beat them against the stone "brellin".  The restaurant sits on the site of the old grocery store where the women would buy soap, brushes, and other items to aid in their work.

For dinner I ordered the renown ossobuco di vitello in gremolada - braised veal shank with risotto milanese (with saffron and bone marrow).

Kathi got the chicche di patate e barbabietola - lemon scented potato and beetroot dumplings with burrata cream and basil zucchini. We took our time, sipped our wine, and savored every moment. 

Leaving the restaurant, we walked back along the eastern side of the canal as night began to fall.

Circling back to our hotel room, we paused along the

Naviglio Grande and were enticed into having one last gelato.

Looks just like the advertisement! I had my favorite flavors - fior di latte and hazelnut

The Italians know how to do sweets!

As the sun fell below the horizon, the cafe lights began to cast a soothing glow on the canal streets.

While the evening promised its own delights, we were both pretty tired and still needed to pack for the long travel day ahead.

We packed as many dirty clothes and other items as we dared (that we could do without if our bags got lost or delayed) into the yellow duffel I had carried the whole time in the bottom of my backpack. Then we packed our Parmigiano-Reggiano, balsamic vinegar, cinque terre tile and patches, thank you gifts and other souvenirs we had picked up along the trip into our carry-ons and fell fast asleep.