Day 7 on our Scandinavian holiday! We were very excited for this day when we would slow-cruise the Stockholm archipelago! But first I got up early to try to wedge in a tour of the Stockholm City Hall. I arrived early because we were on a tight schedule. The anticipation built as I approached on the Stadshusbron bridge. 
The City Hall stands on the eastern tip of Kungsholmen island and houses a variety of offices, conference rooms, and ceremonial halls. It is the venue of the Nobel Prize banquet.
As I waited for City Hall to open, I walked around the perimeter. This sculpture adorns the streetside entrance.
Many people must grab the tail of the lion as you can see the patina is well-worn.
The eastern side of the tower has a base decorated with the gold-plated burial monument of the 13th century Swedish statesman Birger Jarl.
On a column down by the water stands a statue of Engelbrekt Engelbrektsson. In 1434 he started a rebellion against Danish leaders with the support of mine workers and peasants from his home area. His rebellion gave peasants a voice in Swedish politics, which they never lost afterwards.Engelbrekt became a national hero, depicted as a public protector and his rebellion came to be seen as the start of the Swedish national awakening, which would triumph in the following century with the victory of King Gustav Vasa (reigned 1523–1560).Darkening skies could not dull the beauty of the many sculptures in the waterfront garden area.
This Carl Eldh statue, part of his Song and Dance installation, borders the steps of Mälaren – the link between Lake Mälaren and the City Hall Terrace.
This Carl Eldh statue, part of his Song and Dance installation, borders the steps of Mälaren – the link between Lake Mälaren and the City Hall Terrace.
Facing City Hall, with the water behind you, you see more of the garden and the tower with a crescent, the moon tower.
The white marble statue "The Poet" depicts the Swedish poet and writer Gustaf Fröding and is one of three similar statues that can be found in the City Hall Park.
In the garden is a statue of Johan August Strindberg, a Swedish playwright, novelist, poet, essayist and painter. These sculptures caused quite a stir in their time due to their nudity.
The Ignatii door is from 1622 and was moved from a building in old town to adorn the City Hall. It was early, so the inside of the courtyard was still pretty empty.
The statue above the archway in the courtyard is called “The saint with the crown”.
On the wall was a mural sculpture remembering a devastating city fire that started in a large gristmill, Eldkvarn, in 1878. At the time of the blaze, the fire was known as the fire of the century, because of its ferocity and the fact that it could be seen from many points of the city, dominating the skyline.
To the right of the "moon tower" is the star tower.
Several plaques and memorials can be found in the colonnade down towards the water, for example to commemorate Alfred Nobel and the Nobel Prizes. The figures on the ceiling are painted by Axel Wallert and are from Greek and Roman mythology.
On the lawn are two large fountains in the shape of shells.
In the garden is a statue of Johan August Strindberg, a Swedish playwright, novelist, poet, essayist and painter. These sculptures caused quite a stir in their time due to their nudity.
The Ignatii door is from 1622 and was moved from a building in old town to adorn the City Hall. It was early, so the inside of the courtyard was still pretty empty.
The statue above the archway in the courtyard is called “The saint with the crown”.
On the wall was a mural sculpture remembering a devastating city fire that started in a large gristmill, Eldkvarn, in 1878. At the time of the blaze, the fire was known as the fire of the century, because of its ferocity and the fact that it could be seen from many points of the city, dominating the skyline.
It gripped the city in horror, as citizens watched the fire rage and fill the night sky,where the Stockholm City Hall stands today.
The City Hall is also the workplace for the city's politicians and civil servants and where the City Council have their meetings. The inside of their city offices is graced with this plaque - a tribute to their environmental ethic.
Almost having come full circle, here's the main street-side entrance.
Two large granite reliefs can be found by the entrance. The relief on the right depicts Stockholm in 1523...... while the left depicts Stockholm during the early 1900s.
Alas, once the City Hall opened, I found out that all tours of the interior and the climb up to the tower had to be done by reservation and there were not spots open until afternoon. Dash! Dejected, I bought a few souvenirs in the City Hall gift shop and then beat feet to meet up with Kathi and the Corkys for our voyage in the Stockholm Archipelago to Sandhamn.
I was hoofing it down Stömgatan street on my way to the ferry harbor but had to pause at the sight of the Hemlös räv ('Rag and Bone'), homeless fox statue.
It was created by British sculptor Laura Ford, purchased by the city of Stockholm and placed in the heart of the city where the tourists and the wealthy would see it. With just a pair of boots and some tattered rags, the statue was meant to elicit care for all who are forgotten and remind people to be kind, giving hope to those in need.
Looking across the water is the Swedish Parliament Building.
One of the bridges crossing the Norström canal.Passing Gustav Adolfs Torg, is his namesake statue - a monument for the King, also known as Gustavus Adolphus, who reigned from 1611 to 1632.
He is often regarded as one of the greatest military commanders of all time and played a crucial role in making Sweden a major European power during the "Thirty Years’ War" between the Catholics and the Lutherans.
Looking across to the Swedish Royal Palace, the home of the King of Sweden and the largest in all of Europe - with over 600 rooms, an armory, and five museums.
The monument commemorates Gustav II Adolf as a national hero, not only for his military successes, but also for his contributions to the development of civil society in Sweden. He is credited with modernizing the Swedish army, introducing important administrative reforms, and advancing the country’s educational system.
Looking across to the Swedish Royal Palace, the home of the King of Sweden and the largest in all of Europe - with over 600 rooms, an armory, and five museums.
The Palace was mostly built during the eighteenth century in the Italian Baroque style, on the spot where the “Tre Kronor” castle burned down in 1697.
Looking past the Stömbron bridge back at the Royal Palace; I love all the pennants flying!
The tide was really ripping in the Norström canal. When I saw this sign I came to a screeching halt!
The sign indicates that Stockholm allows anglers to fish for free in its waters and that every year hundreds of salmon and sea trout are caught here. The rips around the bridge pilings are some of the best places to fish.
This doe street art popped up all around Stockholm - I'm a fan.
Looking past the Stömbron bridge back at the Royal Palace; I love all the pennants flying!
The tide was really ripping in the Norström canal. When I saw this sign I came to a screeching halt!
The sign indicates that Stockholm allows anglers to fish for free in its waters and that every year hundreds of salmon and sea trout are caught here. The rips around the bridge pilings are some of the best places to fish.
This doe street art popped up all around Stockholm - I'm a fan.
I met up with Kathi and the Corkys at the Nybrokajen harbor. Ferry boats big and small lined the harbor as people cued up for their excursions.
There are many different archipelago tours to choose from; we chose Stromma's 8-hour "Archipelago Canal Tour to Sandhamn" What appealed to us was the tour was a slow, all-day excursion on a smaller boat that wound it's way through some of the narrower canals before chugging across the open sea to the outer island of Sandhamn - the last stop before Finland!
https://www.stromma.com/en-se/stockholm/excursions/day-trips/canal-tour-to-sandhamn/
Here's a map of the route.
We took this ferry one way and then booked the big, fast Cinderellabåtarna ferry, one-way, to whisk us home on a different route. Here's that map:On a Wednesday, there were only a couple dozen people on our small canal-sized boat so we had our run of the ship and could change seats, fore and aft, inside and out at will. Happy to finally depart!
Looking down the shoreline towards the Nobel Park.
Fishing boats, tugs, and other vessels lined up along the island shoreline of Skeppsholmen attest to Stockholm's maritime heritage.Turning south as we approach the Vasa Museum...
There she is, the Vasa Museum...
Kastellet is a small citadel located on the Kastellholmen island.
The first fortification was built in 1667, but, after Kastellet exploded in June 1845, it was rebuilt between 1846 and 1848. On the top of the Kastellet, the Military Ensign of Sweden is hoisted and lowered every day, indicating the nation is at peace. However, on May 17, 1996, on Norwegian Constitution Day, some Norwegian expats temporarily raised the Norwegian flag in the tower. The rivalry continues!
Passing the "Elite Hotel"...
These oddly amusing statues were created by artists Hakan Sanchis and Anna Johansen for the film The Last Tree. The replicas resemble the Easter Island Moai and have found a permanent home in the Nacka Strand district of Stockholm.
Passing the Stiftelsen Danviks Hospital,
... which we were told was converted into an old folks home, where elderly Swedes are cared for free of change - one of the benefits of their higher taxes.
What follows are a lot of postcard-like pictures of beautiful island homes that dot the rocky shorelines of the archipelago.
Turning south in the Skurusundet canal...
This is one sleek sailing vessel!
The Saltsjö Dufnäs Marina
The tour came with a great in-person guide who, along with the captain, continuously narrated our voyage and peppered us with facts about the archipelago. Our guide asked us where we had come from and why we were in Stockholm. We told him about Lars and his party and one way or another we launched into a rendition of Helan Går. He asked us to sing an American drinking song, when I realized there were no good ones. 99 Bottles of Beer on the Wall just wouldn't do!
Turning south in the Skurusundet canal...
This is one sleek sailing vessel!
The Saltsjö Dufnäs Marina
If I remember correctly, the little house below was owned by a custom's official that used to inspect and monitor all the commercial ship traffic in and out of Stockholm.
He inspected a ship with cholera, became infected, and then spread the deadly disease throughout Stockholm and then Sweden. This was ground zero. Of course he later died of the disease.
He inspected a ship with cholera, became infected, and then spread the deadly disease throughout Stockholm and then Sweden. This was ground zero. Of course he later died of the disease.
As the canal opened up into the broader Lannerstasundet bay, we were greeted by a flotilla of small sailing vessels - not unlike the yacht club schools in Norfolk, Virginia.
Back to the lovely archipelago homes...
Love the architectural decorations!
Some homes are grand, others more simple - all lovely!
Near Knappens hål...
Below, near the Skogsö monument...
After crossing the Baggensfjärden bay, we continued to head westward towards Hällen and came across this lovely compound.
I asked our tour guide about the different house colors and wondered if there was any type of ordinance or historic convention that guided the selection of colors.
He told us that the traditional red color that we loved so much, was actually an earlier sign that the owners didn't have a lot of money to spend on paint. The red color came from a waste by-product of iron mining and so the cheapest paint was red. It became a status symbol for those with money to NOT paint their houses red. I wonder if there's any cheap paint connection with the iconic red barns in New England that we also love so much? Something to research!
Back to the lovely archipelago homes...
Some homes are grand, others more simple - all lovely!
Near Knappens hål...
Below, near the Skogsö monument...
After crossing the Baggensfjärden bay, we continued to head westward towards Hällen and came across this lovely compound.
I asked our tour guide about the different house colors and wondered if there was any type of ordinance or historic convention that guided the selection of colors.
He told us that the traditional red color that we loved so much, was actually an earlier sign that the owners didn't have a lot of money to spend on paint. The red color came from a waste by-product of iron mining and so the cheapest paint was red. It became a status symbol for those with money to NOT paint their houses red. I wonder if there's any cheap paint connection with the iconic red barns in New England that we also love so much? Something to research!
A canal-side sauna; the perfect place for a refreshing dip!
West of the Ingarövägen bridge, the canal narrows considerably.
You can see why only smaller vessels can ply these waters!
From my elevated perch, I could see some big fish in the shoreline reeds. Wish I had my fly rod to take a few casts as we slowly passed by.
One of the lovely tower buildings on the site of the Ingarö Church site?
Slow cruising means starting up conversations with strangers. We found that there was even another family on the boat from Virginia! It's a small world!
Just before entering into the Återlögafjärd bay...
Along the Herrviksnäs peninsula...
Full speed ahead towards Tranäro...
Corky manning the bow...
In the Strömma canal...
Approaching the Route 222, Stavsnäsvägen drawbridge...
The Strömma Krog & Kanalbar; pity we didn't stop for a cocktail...
Open sesame!
The bar below decks was fully stocked, but unmanned.
With few passengers, I think the crew was taking a break. Food and snacks were also available for purchase.
The aft lounge area would have come in handy of the weather wasn't so nice.
Families and friends on a relaxing cruise.
Arriving in Sandhamn...
The big rock is called Kvarnberget, translated as "observation deck"
Charming Sandhamn...
The Sandhamn Seglarhotell dominates the marina view.
After a 4 hour voyage, we disembarked onto Sandhamn.The historic harbor buildings, no doubt used to store goods for import or export.
West of the Ingarövägen bridge, the canal narrows considerably.
You can see why only smaller vessels can ply these waters!
From my elevated perch, I could see some big fish in the shoreline reeds. Wish I had my fly rod to take a few casts as we slowly passed by.
One of the lovely tower buildings on the site of the Ingarö Church site?
Leaving one narrow canal...
... and heading northward into another (towards Storholmen)Slow cruising means starting up conversations with strangers. We found that there was even another family on the boat from Virginia! It's a small world!
Cruising between Södra Langö and Nykvarn...
Just before entering into the Återlögafjärd bay...
Along the Herrviksnäs peninsula...
Full speed ahead towards Tranäro...
Corky manning the bow...
In the Strömma canal...
Approaching the Route 222, Stavsnäsvägen drawbridge...
The Strömma Krog & Kanalbar; pity we didn't stop for a cocktail...
Open sesame!
The bar below decks was fully stocked, but unmanned.
With few passengers, I think the crew was taking a break. Food and snacks were also available for purchase.
The aft lounge area would have come in handy of the weather wasn't so nice.
Families and friends on a relaxing cruise.
Arriving in Sandhamn...
The big rock is called Kvarnberget, translated as "observation deck"
Charming Sandhamn...
The Sandhamn Seglarhotell dominates the marina view.
After a 4 hour voyage, we disembarked onto Sandhamn.The historic harbor buildings, no doubt used to store goods for import or export.
Strindbergsgården is a family-run waffle café known for its charming and somewhat wild garden atmosphere, using recycled materials like old boat timbers for seating. Our guide said it as a great place to get some ice cream if we had the time.
Waffle pans on the walls advertise their specialties.
The Sandhamns Värdshus has served as Sandhamn's customs house since the 1600s.
Before the 1600s, Sandhamn was most likely uninhabited and mostly used for pasturage by inhabitants on the surrounding islands. No later than the 17th century, the inhabitants of Eknö piloted ships through the archipelago as a secondary income. But, as the navigable strait passing by Sandhamn was restricted to the Swedish Navy and ships going to Estonia and Latvia, only a single pilot was initially settled on the island by the end of that century.
In 1719, the entire archipelago was hit by the Russian arson fleet and Sandhamn, like other settlements, was looted and burned. Over 20,000 people in the archipelago lost everything they owned. After the Peace of Uusimaa in 1721, calmer and more peaceful times came and Sweden slowly regained a better economy. Several trading companies were formed - including the East India Company. By 1726, the Sandhamn Pass had been completely opened to all trade traffic, and farmer/pilots from Eknö moved to Sandhamn to be closer to their full-time duty station. The current customs house was built in 1752.
As we continued our island tour west, our guide pointed out the (now) bakery building which was one of the few historical buildings not burned by the Russians.
No cars allowed; looking up one of the typical bicycle, pedestrian and golf cart (ick) streets of Sandhamn.
Old buildings have a charm all their own. Don't you agree?
Narrow streets...
Our little canal-boat tour ended on an un-named rock outcropping a few blocks behind the Customs House.
This little cottage had splendid views of the Baltic Sea & beyond.
It's garden had the largest poppies I've ver seen - the size of your palm!
Looking back towards town...
We circled back to the cafe associated with the Sandhamns Värdshus
Oh those poppies!!!!
It's garden had the largest poppies I've ver seen - the size of your palm!
Looking back towards town...
We circled back to the cafe associated with the Sandhamns Värdshus
I had the Swedish version of fish and chips - yum!
After a nice lunch, we continued to explore on our own, working eastward on the interior pathways. This maritime home was complete with its own "widows walk".Oh those poppies!!!!
Gorgeous homes with every head turn...
A weather front was approaching as we window-shopped along the waterfront. We had some time before our Cinderellabåtarna ferry would arrive so we decided to take refuge in the Sandhamn Seglarhotell patio bar.
Me and Cork.
It poured for a bit, but then the skies started to clear.
Kathi and I grabbed an ice cream and coffee fika and soon enough our ferry boat arrived.
Near the Stegesund ferry terminal...
Picking up speed in open water...
Near the Stora Kammarholmen peninsula...
The Vaxholm Fortress (below) was originally constructed by Gustav Vasa around 1548 to defend Stockholm against shipborne attacks from the east.
The fortress lies in the middle of the Kodjupet strait, one of two main routes into Stockholm from the Baltic Sea.
A weather front was approaching as we window-shopped along the waterfront. We had some time before our Cinderellabåtarna ferry would arrive so we decided to take refuge in the Sandhamn Seglarhotell patio bar.
Me and Cork.
It poured for a bit, but then the skies started to clear.
Kathi and I grabbed an ice cream and coffee fika and soon enough our ferry boat arrived.
We boarded the ferry and, again, here's our route back to Stockholm.
We got situated inside and played cards a bit and just relaxed while the water coursed by. Before long, we were cruising through the Stegesundet canal, just north of Vaxholm. More cute cottage overload...
Fancy a book while waiting for the ferry?Near the Stegesund ferry terminal...
Picking up speed in open water...
Near the Stora Kammarholmen peninsula...
The Vaxholm Fortress (below) was originally constructed by Gustav Vasa around 1548 to defend Stockholm against shipborne attacks from the east.
The fortress lies in the middle of the Kodjupet strait, one of two main routes into Stockholm from the Baltic Sea.
The Vaxholm ferry terminal...
Near Nacka, the "God Our Father on a Rainbow" fountain.
Unfortunately, the spigot was not turned on as we passed by :(
Back in the Saltsjön sea, near the Kvarnholmen peninsula...
We pulled into the terminal and quickly disembarked. On the walk back to our hotel, we passed some guards on their way to their posts at the Royal Palace on Gamla Stan.
I walked up the ramp that led to the Palace entrance and in this little alcove was the three-crown emblem of Sweden (that looked like it used to top a tower somewhere).
Back at the hotel, we again rendezvoused at the Scandic Gamla Stan's rooftop seating area and admired the skylines - still light at nearly 10pm.
After a long, but wonderful and relaxing day of cruising the Stockholm Archipelago, it was finally time for bed. Tomorrow we would take the long train to Oslo, Norway!
Near Nacka, the "God Our Father on a Rainbow" fountain.
Unfortunately, the spigot was not turned on as we passed by :(
Back in the Saltsjön sea, near the Kvarnholmen peninsula...
Coming full circle, passing the Stiftelsen Danviks Hospital...
... and the Kastellet on Kastellholmen island.We pulled into the terminal and quickly disembarked. On the walk back to our hotel, we passed some guards on their way to their posts at the Royal Palace on Gamla Stan.
I walked up the ramp that led to the Palace entrance and in this little alcove was the three-crown emblem of Sweden (that looked like it used to top a tower somewhere).
Back at the hotel, we again rendezvoused at the Scandic Gamla Stan's rooftop seating area and admired the skylines - still light at nearly 10pm.
After a long, but wonderful and relaxing day of cruising the Stockholm Archipelago, it was finally time for bed. Tomorrow we would take the long train to Oslo, Norway!










































































































































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