Doing my research on the Norway fjords, time and time again, I came across references to the "Norway-in-a-Nutshell" tour. It goes from Oslo to Bergen, typically through the Aurlandsfjord and the World Unesco designated Nærøyfjord. But we decided to throw in an alternate way station to get off the beaten track and visit Balestrand in the middle of the "Nutshell" route.
Below is the train route from Oslo to Flåm.
Here a view of the Krøderen Lake.
Passing by the Usteåne River near the village of Vestreim...
Continuing NW towards Flåm...
Time to switch trains!
The interior is comfortable and spacious; since the train wasn't full, we got to spread out for views on both sides.
Down the winding valley there are many tight curves, with a curve radius down to 130 meters - something that is very low on normal tracks.
The train runs through spectacular scenery, alongside verdant mountainsides, foaming waterfalls and through 20 tunnels (18 dug by hand using dynamite and blasting!) to make its way to the fjords.
Continuing to climb towards the snow-fed Reinungavatnet lake, which is the source of the famous Kjosfossen waterfall.
Making our way along the Flåmselvi River
Next up: the rural settlement of Storaberget...
Snow melt leads down into the Kvanntjørnnuten lake, which then cascades down the mountainside and into the Flåmselvi river.
Looking at its emerald waters, I couldn't help thinking about what fish might take a fly and be coaxed out of the Flåmselva's enticing flows.
I'll say it again - stunning! Mannen mountain rising to snowy heights in the top right (below).
The Flåmsbana train continues to cut its way through the valley on its way to the Aurlandsfjorden.
Looking back to the east....
The local church and riverfront graveyard...
We passed through the village of Lunden and then suddenly we arrived in Flåm. Time to disembark from this magical tour.
The port of Flåm was bustling with activity, buses and trains were arriving, some hurried to take advantage of some souvenir shopping, others getting a quick bite to eat and people queuing up to take a ferry through the Aurlandsfjord to the World Unesco Heritage Nærøyfjord and then continue on their "Norway-in-a-Nutshell" tour to Bergen.
It was a little confusing where to find our Norland ferry since we were deviating from the standard "Nutshell" route and going north to find a less trampled experience and overnight stay in Balestrand in the Sognefjord. Kathi expertly found our ferry and staked out our place in line so we could get good seats. We boarded the ferry at around 3:30 for the one-hour cruise.
The region, known as Aurland, is a world heritage site, with one of the most dramatic mountain landscapes in all of Norway. 
After a quick stop, passing the fjord town of Nedberget fjellgard...
Looking back, the snow capped mountains beyond Flåm could still be seen in the distance.
Kathi likes a selfie from time to time...
Me and Lars...
Looking towards the Ståelvi drainage, where it tumbles down into the Aurlandsfjord.
Peaks upon peaks near Undredal...
Looking up the Undredal valley with the Nærøyfjorden landskapsvernområde (national park) on the right.
Couldn't get enough of these stunning chalky geologic formations!
... or the massive monoliths!
Earlier in the spring, all these drainages would be flowing...
An outpost for the village of Fresvik, just north of the Fysseneset waterfall...
The village of Fresvik...
Before long, we disembarked our Norland ferry and walked the short distance to our accommodations - the Balestrand Fjordapartments.
Walking through Balestrand (Balholmen in Norwegian), with the snow-capped mountains of the Jostedalsbreen nasjonalpark in the background...
We settled into our apartment and found our way to a little grocery store conveniently located just a few steps from our front door. We picked out some meats, cheeses, vegetables, and fruit for a charcuterie dinner.
To say that the Balestrand harbor was lovely is and understatement!
An historic sailing vessel was moored across the street at one of the local parks.
We ran into some young adults that grew up in Balestrand, moved away, but had returned for a visit. They inspired us by taking a plunge into the cold waters of the fjord!
Looking west from the Balestrand Marina at the Meneseggl mountain and the Jostedal glacier and national park in the background - mesmerizing!
Looking across the fjord to the farmland in the little parish of Tjugum...
Walking back past the celebrated Kviknes Hotel...
After our short little walkabout, we returned to our rented apartment overlooking the fjord to snack on our grocery store charcuterie. Not too shabby!
After filling our bellies, we went for another walk to explore this beautiful little town - scenic around every corner!
We walked into the Kviknes Hotel, where we would splurge on a buffet breakfast the next morning.
Looking south from the hotel, attracted by the fjord's rocky, algae-covered shoreline, bringing back early memories of my marine biology career.
St. Olaf's church figures prominently within the village...
Making our way to St. Olaf's, beautifully maintained Norwegian architecture.
Arriving at St. Olaf's church...
St. Olaf's church was built in 1897 in the style of the Norwegian stave-church. Its construction was championed by Margaret Sophia Green, the daughter of an english clergyman, who met Knut Kvikne, manager of the famous hotel that bears his name, while mountain climbing and exploring the area. A combination of tuberculosis and the Asian/Russian flu took her life at age 42, but it was her dying wish that an "English church" be built in Balestrand. 
Klaudine Skarestad, started the art of smetttevevnaden, the special Fjærland weaving technique used in the alter tapestry. The banner (see above) is of St. Olaf, Norway's King and patron Saint.
The alter picture of Christ was painted by Emma Normann.
A little carved picture inside the entrance...
The dragon's-head figures on the gables are a link with Norway's
The Flåm Railway has been described as one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world, winding through some of the most dramatic fjord and mountain scenery in Norway.
Over the course of an hour, the train would take us from the Myrdal station (at 867 meters above sea level), through the high mountains and then down to sea level at the end of the Aurlandsfjord, a tributary of the Sognefjord.
As out train left for the return trip to Oslo, we waited in anticipation for the the Flåmsbana!
The Flåm Railway is one of the steepest standard gauge railway lines in the world, with 80% of the journey running on a gradient of 5.5% without the use of gears or cables for traction!
Time to get onboard!
In short order, we reached the Reinunga mountain plateau where the train makes a quick stop at the Kjosfossen waterfall so passengers can see and feel its thunderous flow!
The falls drop a total of 93 meters and the viewing platform is only accessible by train - this is one of the main attractions of the route.
During the stop, passengers are treated to a folk dance performance by students from the Norwegian Ballet School, each taking turns to act as "Huldra" a Norwegian forest spirit. (see her in the top right of the photo below)
Huldra is known for her red dress and long flowing hair. According to legend, she lures men deep into the forest with her beauty and dance with the intention of seducing them.
Here's an image from the interwebs...
Lucky for Toni, Nancy and Kathi, us menfolk were all immune to her wily ways.
The section after Kjosfossen was the most demanding to build on the entire stretch. It includes the longest tunnel on the route, the Nåli tunnel, with a 180-degree turn inside the mountain to safely traverse the gradient.
Emerging from the tunnel, there's a splendid view looking from the Kardal valley back up towards the Kjosfossen waterfall crossing.
Melt from the Holebotn snow mass courses down the mountain to spill over in this spectacular waterfall at Dalsbotn.
Just east of the village of Håreina, the verdant valley widens, with the beautiful Flåmsselvi flowing through it.
The six of us found spots outside so we could enjoy the scenery. Love this picture of Nancy and Lars!
The cliffs surrounding the fjord reminded me of the great western national parks in the US, like Yosemite and Glacier, except these rose from the the depths of the fjords.
Amazing landscape!
The Kvikne family started offering hospitality as early as 1752, with the first hotel completed in 1890. As it grew more popular with royalty, emperors, film stars and artists, additions followed and this current structure was completed in 1913. It's the largest wooden structure in Northern Europe and typical of the classic Swiss style of architecture.
For those staying at the hotel, this is the view from their lounge.
Why is no one out enjoying this lovely view? Crazy!
Paintings depict what winter looks like. That would be fun to be cozy inside, perhaps by a fire, with this view!
Just walking around, sparsely populated, quiet, and unhurried, you can tell this area is untouched by cruise ships. So glad we got off the "Nutshell" beaten track to relax and soak up the Norwegian fjord ambiance.
Regal and majestic, the Kviknes Hotel, overlooking the Sognefjord...
Knut honored that wish and the Anglican church was opened in 1897 and the family, along with the Friends of St. Olaf's, supports the chaplains who serve the church and the community during the summer months.
As with most stave churches, St. Olaf's is supported by central timber posts (staves) which are decorated.
Here's a general primer on stave church design...
The cross braces, in the form of St. Andrew's cross, are more for aesthetic appeal than for support.
The alter picture of Christ was painted by Emma Normann.
The 29 plain glass windows give views of the Sognefjord and the mountains, while the nine stained-glass windows above the alter feature Saints Margaret, Columba, Sunniva, Clement, Bride, Olaf, Swithun, George and Halvard.
Beautifully-carved decorations in the roof structure...
pre-Christian mythologies.
We strolled back to the apartment, bathing in the mid-summer evening light. We washed some clothes, read, and prepared for a well-travelled, well-earned sleep. Tomorrow, we would have a long travel leg to get back on the "Nutshell" rout to make our way to Bergen, Norway.
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