Denmark, Sweden, Norway: Day 12 - Norway-in-a-Nutshell Continued, Balestrand to Bergen, Norway

Last night in Balestrand we made teams and played cards with the rule that the losers had to jump into the fjord. The guys' team lost, par for the course, but I secretly wanted to jump in the fjord anyway so this was just added inspiration (to the young guys we saw do it the day before). Corky had arranged through the Kviknes Hotel for an early morning sauna so I snuck out early and made my way down to the sea.

The skies were overcast, but that couldn't dampen my enthusiasm or trepidation.  The sauna was small and simple, but the location was glorious!

I found Corky soaking his sore ankle in the frigid waters of the Sognefjord; he's a braver man than I!

We ducked into the sauna putting all cold thoughts out of our minds as we ladled water onto the hot coals and the temperature rose.

Not a bad view!

Inside, we deviated from the Scandinavian protocol (nakedness) and kept it PG for you, our dear viewers!

After building up a sweat, we took to the cool outdoors and stared down the stone steps into the Sognefjord.

Not knowing the shoreline or what obstructions lay below, we decided to enter using the stone steps, but they were covered with algae so that didn't lend itself to a quick entry.  We had to wade in almost to our waist!

Then, "Jeronimo!"

Whoa!  The Sognefjord in June is seriously cold!  Gasping from the cold, we rushed out of the water and back into the sauna as quick as we could!  We warmed up again pretty quickly and, to make sure our sauna was legit, we dove into the icy waters one more time.  One more brief warm up and then we ventured out to welcome the morning once more.  I was feeling really alive; all my senses were tingling.  I think I get the attraction to the sauna lifestyle.  

On the way back to our apartment, I stopped to snap a few pictures of lovely Balestrand.

The dry-stack rocky bulkheads and iron-rich painted buildings...

The fucus algae harkening back to my undergraduate marine science schooling...

Imagine living in this old house with that view!

with your little "summer house"...

Back at our apartment, efforts were already underway to pack up for our long journey to Bergen, Norway. Just to get a sense of our apartment, here are some pictures of our set up at Balestrand Fjordapartments.

Our simple bedroom (1 of 2)...

Communal bathroom (with washing machine!)...

Kitchen area...

There was also a nice lounge area (that I didn't get a picture of).  

Outdoor seating, overlooking a park and the fjord...

It was very nice and affordable.  I also liked the the reference books that were provided on outdoor activities and hiking options, local history, etc.

After we packed up, we headed to the Kviknes Hotel for their famed buffet breakfast and, more importantly, tables with a view.

The grand dining area did not disappoint!

The buffet had just about anything you could imagine - meats, cheese, salmon, yogurt, cereal, juices, coffee and tea, and on and on!

As we rolled out of our breakfast feast, I paused to admire the historic accommodations.  We should've stayed up late and come here for a nightcap as the sun set over the fjord :(

I admired the paintings of historic Balestrand...

The lounge for gatherings - all with that gorgeous view!

Historic photos of the hotel in winter.

We returned to the apartment, grabbed our bags and made our way to the harbor for the ferry back to Flåm and the re-entry into the "Norway-in-a-Nutshell" route to Bergen.

Some of the cute cafes and shops near the harbor... 

Loving the cultural Nordic architecture and the dragon head decorations from Norse mythology...

These buildings, evolved from the work of the artist Hans Dahl and are famous throughout Norway.

We said a sad farewell to Balestrand and hopped on the Norled ferry around noon for the trip back to Flåm.  

Over the course of the next 90 minutes, even with overcast skies and some rain, we were treated to more epic scenery of the rugged mountains, glacier-fed waterfalls, verdant valleys, and little villages of the Sognefjord. 

We pulled into Flåm and grabbed a fika while waiting for the Lustrabaatane ferry to take us to Gudvangen.  This is a slower ferry than the Norland ferry, but it was the only one that synched with our timetable and we would have chosen it anyway so that we got more time viewing the World UNESCO Heritage Nærøyfjord.

When the Flamsbana train pulled in, we knew it was almost time to queue up for the ferry.  Once again, Kathi saved our place in line so we could get good seats.

At the rail line's terminus in Flåm is this monument to the workers that built the railway over the course of 20 years, from 1910 - 1930. 

This Google topographic map shows the horseshoe route from Flåm (lower right) to Gudvangen (lower left) and why the waterbody is called the Nærøyfjord as you approach Gudvangen.  The narrowness of the fjord and the steepness of the enclosing mountains provides for some truly dramatic scenery!  

Also, note all the waterfalls that are fed from glaciers or snow-capped mountains.  This is why tourists flock to this area and take the Norway-in-a-Nutshell journey.

Our vessel, the Lady Elizabeth, arrived to discharge her passengers in Flåm and then we boarded and it was time for us to depart!  So excited!

Below decks it was very nicely appointed and a good refuge in case of foul weather, but, understandably, everyone was topside to take in the scenery.

As we left Flåm, through the broken clouds, sun rays illuminated the glacier...

So many waterfalls!

My iPhone did not do these landscapes justice :(

Passing Aurlandsvangen once more as we cruised northward...

I love the sense of scale these little settlements provide, perched on these postage stamp parcels of cleared land.

Another view of the village of Undredal.

Waterfalls everywhere...

Looking towards Fimreiteåsen before making the turn south...

No more snow to feed these drainages, too steep for vegetation...

Less steep slopes can support lush vegetation...

We had unobstructed views ahead, but aft, another vessel crept into our view - respectfully, never passing.

The sun peaked in and out of the clouds, nevertheless, the views were stupendous!

If you like waterfalls, this excursion is for you!

The Odnesfossen watefall...

Again, the sense of scale is awe inspiring!

The Dyrdal badaplass campground situated next to the Drydalselvi drainage...

On the opposite shore, the Styvi kayaker's campsite.

One little farm near Styvisviki, on the southern flank of the Nærøyfjord...

The Tuftefossen waterfall

This shot through the ferry's bullnose at the snow-capped mountains is a trip favorite!

Unframed...

The settlement of Tufto...

There's a trailhead here that leads to the alpine lake Rimstigen.

The Nærøyfjorden Camping area next to the Bakka church....

Bakka is a tiny village located on the western shore of the Nærøyfjord, about 5 kilometres north of Gudvangen and you can access it via the route E16 highway. 

The grassy slopes of Bakka kept open by sheep grazing.  

You can also see the drainage from alpine lake Bakkanosi

Approaching our transfer destination at Gudvangen - spectacular!

Almost there...

See the little red kayak in the photo below?

So many waterfalls...

The Lady Elizabeth delivered us safely to Gudvangen - WoW, what a treat!

End of the line for the Nærøyfjord (looking north)

We had time before we would catch our bus connection to Voss so we grabbed a snack and wandered around Gudvangen. In the village, there was a re-creation of a thousand year old viking village called "Njardarheimr", dedicated to the Norse god Njord, the god of sea, wind, and wealth. 

The viking village is meant to provide a living cultural and historical experience for visitors. Unfortunately, it was closed when we arrived.

In the background is the grouping of waterfalls that feed into a drainage called "Mongs Kulp".  

From another viewpoint, the wind blowing one of the waterfalls into a fine mist - reminded me of Bridalveil Falls in Yosemite...

Looking south along the Nærøydalselvi (river) that collects the water from all the cascading waterfalls and delivers them into the fjord.

In case you're wondering, YES, there's salmon in that river!

It was finally time to catch our bus so we crossed the Nærøydalselvi and made our way to the intersection with route E16 where we waited for our bus to Voss.

Even though it was no longer Scandinavian mid-summer, I couldn't help pick flowers at the bus stop to adorn Kathi's hair.  She's a good sport, my love...

It was almost 8 pm when we boarded the bus.  After the exhilaration of the fjord, we were happy to make haste towards Voss and our train connection to Bergen.  However, that didn't stop me from noticing prime salmon fishing water along the Nærøydalselvi for most of our route.

It rained most of the way to Voss. We got dumped off near the train station and tried to find a place to stay out of the sprinkling rain. We used the basement WC at the fancy Fleischer's Hotel and got ice cream bars at a nearby convenience store as we waited for the train. When it arrived, we tiredly hopped onboard, got some dinner snacks from the cafe car, and zoned out for the 75 minute ride to Bergen, arriving at 11:18pm!

We made the slow march to our hotel, the Citybox Bergen, and went directly to bed, dreaming of our upcoming guided tour of Bergen and what surprises the next day would bring.