Saturday, December 21, 2024

Italy/Slovenia 2024 - Day 1, May 22: Venice


This was our third trip to Italy together with Kathi ticking off some big wants on her list - Venice and Bologna.  We included Trieste, a less popular city (but with its own 'grand canal'), that lay around the bend of the Adriatic Sea, abutting Slovenia to the east and Croatia to the south.  From Trieste, we would dash into Slovenia for some sightseeing, fly fishing, and to visit the international headquarters for beekeeping.     

 We arrived at the airport and instead of taking a bus or train into Venice, we decided it would be more appropriate to go by water.  It's pretty cool that the airport has its own water taxi shuttle facility.

Pulling away from the ferry docks, I have to say, the lagoon water where all the local seafood comes from, did not look to enticing! 
We entered Venice proper through the Cannaregio neighborhood filled with anticipation!

We tucked under out first Venice bridge, the Ponte dei Tre Archi, and the Ponte delle Guglie followed shortly thereafter, before reaching the grand canal.  Everywhere you looked, beautiful, historic buildings on the canal, like the Chiesa di San Stae, a 17th-century sanctuary that houses intricate carvings, statues & paintings by renowned artists.
Before long, we passed under the famed Ponte de Rialto, a 16th-century stone footbridge (much like the Ponte Vecchio in Florence), crowded with shops and tourists!
In the narrow maze of alleyways, we used our phone's GPS and walking directions to find our way to apartment, put down our bags and decompress from the long flight.  Once revived, we set out to do some light exploring.  We strategically chose an apartment in San Marco as a hub to expand out to all the different neighborhoods of the city.  Our first stop was just minutes away, the Piazza San Marco.
Unlike when I was 10 and my parents took the family on a 6-week camping trip through Europe, there were no vendors selling bird seed to feed the pigeons.  I guess that keeps the square (and the unsuspecting tourists) cleaner.  

Inside the Basilica di San Marco was a wonderland of gilded ceilings, moasics, and masterful artwork.

Ornate barriers separated the people from the clergy.
Behind the high alter lay the Pala d'Oro, made up of 250, 10th-12th century cloisonnes enamels of different sizes on sheets of gold
In the lower center is the great Christ Pantocreator; he is surrounded by evangelists, prophets, apostles and angels.  The bordering panels portray the life of Saint Mark.  Various pearls and precious stones are set in the enamels.
The Pala d'Oro is the world's only intact example of a large size gothic goldsmith's art and it is universally considered to be the most precious and refined expression of Byzantine genius and the cult of light, understood as the raising of man towards God.

Returning back to the front of the alter, I couldn't hlp but still be mesmerized by the grandeur of the place.

Kathi is always keen to light a candle and pray for a loved one.  In places like this, it seems more meaningful somehow.
While Kathi waited, I climbed to the upper floors for a view from the balcony overlooking Saint Mark's Square.  Inside, were the original bronze statues that used to adorn the outside of the Basilica.
The mosaics on the vaulted ceilings were breathtaking!  Once can only wonder at the monumental effort it took to assemble these ornate scenes!
The Madonna...
Outside on the balcony, looking north, Saint Mark's Square lay out before me.  
Looking east, past the replica stallions, was the Torre dell'Orologio (clock tower) and I was lucky enough to see the bell-ringers swing into action and hammer out the noon day hour.

Looking south, was the portion of the piazza that led to the thoroughfare between San Marco and the island of Guidecca.  The iconic columns topped with statues announced to all upon the sea, that this was a place of keen importance. 
Even thought the summer tides were not extreme, you can see shallow pools of water flooding up through the drainage system.  Mostly, tourists just side-stepped these minor obstructions and cafe tables and chairs were set on higher ground.

Taking up a corner of the square was the Campanile di San Marco, the cathedral tower.
Looking back from the sea, catching the basilica's reflection in the high tide.
Looking at the detail of the basilica's roofline and spires. The wealth that created all this in the 14th and 15th century is unimaginable.
In front of Palazzo Ducale, the gondoliers wait for clients to ply the waters of the Grand Canal.
We walked back through San Marco to the Rialto Bridge - both the interior steps, with the shops and the exterior steps, with the views, were still pretty busy.  We walked with our hands in pour pockets, listening for the woman who's become famous for outing pick-pockets.  Attentione!
Like the other tourists, we stopped long enough to take in the Grand Canal and snap a quick selfie.
We ventured into San Polo, poking our noses into the labyrinth of alleys, each unique and, often, quite beautiful.
We circled back across the Rialto and made our way back to our apartment, marveling at the narrow canals off the Grand Canal - here, the Rio di San Salvador. 
After a trip back to the Apartment and a rest, we ventured back out again for some gelato for dinner.
By 6 pm, all the gondoliers, were coming home to roost, tidying up and preparing for the next days' throng of tourists who would be willing to shell out $100 for an hour vying for space with the other boats.
For our day of arrival, we'd accomplished a lot, but had only just begun to unlock Venice's secrets.  We happily retreated back to our apartment for a solid night's sleep.


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