It was Sunday, so we searched online for religious service locations and times. Turns out, just a few blocks away was the Bascilica di San Domenico that had a 9:30 mass. Arriving early, we had a cappuccino with the Carabinieri at a little cafe just off the Piazza.
The church and the square are dedicated to Saint Domenic, the founder of the Order of Dominican friars. In the piazza is a column topped with a statue dedicated to him.
Inside, the church has three naves, numerous side chapels, a transcept, and a choir. I was able to snap a few pictures before the mass was supposed to have begun.
The long naive of the Basilica, leading to the apse, or sanctuary, where the alter is found.
The Chapel of the Rosary, contains the venerated image of the “Blessed Virgin of the Rosary” surrounded by panels depicting the “Fifteen Mysteries of the Rosary”, completed in 1601 by mostly Bolognese artists.
The Chapel of San Domenico contains the precious "Ark of Saint Dominic" where the saint's mortal remains are preserved.
The four 16th century canvases against the side walls depict miracles performed by Saint Dominic: the miracle of the book that resists fire, which occurred in the South of France, the miracle of the resurrected child, which occurred in Rome, the miracle of the resurrection of Napoleon Orsini, which occurred in Rome, and the miracle of the resurrection of the drowned pilgrims, which occurred in the South of France.
The fresco below, in the apse, depicts the Glory of Saint Dominic.
The seven statues placed on the back wall within niches represent the three theological virtues (Faith, Hope and Charity) and the four cardinal virtues (Temperance, Fortitude, Justice and Prudence).
Standing at attention, swords drawn...
Saluting the Italian flag...
After the ceremony, we, like the rest of the crowd dispersed.
We walked north, along the Via Garibaldi, headed for the Piazza Maggiore and the Basilica di San Petronio and their 11:00 mass. Along the way, were were treated to a stunning example of the beautiful porticos that are a hallmark of Bologna's charm.
At the north end of the Piazza Galvani, we took in the immensity of the Basilica di San Petronio's apse and its exterior. The Basilica is the largest church in Bologna and the largest, brick-built gothic church in the world!
Inside the Basilica, the naive is almost 400 feet long!
The main alter and ciborium... (a covered vessel used to hold the consecrated bread of the Christian church during the Eucharist)
The Chapel of the Three Kings, aka Bolognini, is the only chapel in the Basilica that preserves its original 15th century decoration. It contains 27carved and painted figures, frescoed walls depicting Episodes from the Life of Saint Petronius and the Stories of the Three Kings, the Last Judgement, the Coronation of the Virgin, and Paradise and Hell - a Dante-style depiction, with a gigantic figure of Lucifer and the representation of the prophet Mohammed in Hell. Among the sinners in hell, the lustful are impaled on spits, the envious are shot with arrows, and the miserly are forced to swallow, with their heads tilted back, a stream of molten gold. Yikes! 
The rose window shows Christ in glory, while the Annunciation appears in thw two smaller oculus' below. The other stained glass windows depict the apostles and the four evangelists.
The Chapel of San Petronio is best known for housing the head and body of Saint Petronius, the Bishop of Bologna during the 5th century and the city's patron saint.
After leaving the Basilica, we split up for a bit so I could climb the the clock tower in the Palazzo d'Accursio town hall complex. Climbing the the ramps to the entrance to the clock tower I learned...
In 1249, Accursio da Bagnolo was a Tuscan law professor who moved to Bologna to teach and he built his home in the Piazza Maggiore which included a tower, later known as the Torre d'Acccursio
The first clock in the tower was an astronomic-astrologic clock that indicated the time as well as the phase of the moon, solar rotation, and the signs of the zodiac. Every hour on the hour, a carousel of painted wooden figurines with the three Magi, preceded by an angel playing a trumpet, passed and bowed in front of the Madonna with child. In 1451, the clock tower was turned into a bell tower with the first mechanical clock connected to a bell that rang on the hour, continuing the tower's significance as a reference point for the entire city.
In 1492, a massive fire broke out which destroyed the top of the tower and even melted the bell. The fire started during celebrations for the coronation of Pope Alexander VI, started by so called "Fuochi d'allegrezza" (cheerfulness fireworks).
Many of the canals were fully exposed in the early 1900s, but were later covered over for development purposes. It's fun to find these remnants of the city's past.
I was circling my way back home. Continuing down the Via delle Moline (referring to the mills that once churned from the power of the canal), I was captivated by the little restaurant, Va Mo La. How lovely!
Continuing to circumnavigate the Quadrilatero, I captured this image of an interesting side street and its cafes, on theVia Del Borgo Di San Pietro.
Below, the historical Via Zamboni intersects with the Piazza Guiseppe Verdi, the hub of Bologna's university district - full of students, bars, and restaurants. In Piazza Verdi, the Convento Padri Agostiniani (Convent of the Augustinian Fathers) dominates the square. 
I continued deeper into university district, along the Via Zamboni. Passing the Department of Legal Studies, the Academy of Sciences, and other university buildings, I was struck by all the graffiti, the broken portico lights (wondering about the safety of women), and the general run down nature of the area. I know Bologna is renown as having one of the oldest universities in Europe, but this area, at least, seemd sketchy at best.
The gate includes a "machiocolated" tower, through which defenders could target attackers who had reached the base of the defensive wall. Given the defenders superior position, the small portals in the tower are called "murder holes".
Walking on, I passed the actual Due Torri and got this shot without all the cable car wires...
It's filled with Egyptian, Roman, and Etruscan artifacts.
Bones, caskets, head stones and other funeral artifacts are on display from the Etruscan "necropolis", translated from the greek language as "the city of the dead".
In an atrium I found this 1907 cast of the statue of Neptune taken from the fountain in the Piazza Maggiore.
I had rushed to tour the museum before it closed and after a long day of exploring; it had some interesting items, but perhaps my fatigue and the lack of diversity and unimaginative display influenced my assessment that it was just OK.
I made my way back to Kathi and our apartment in the Residenza del Duse. We had a big day planned for tomorrow - taking the train to nearby Modena and touring the historic family balsamic vinegar operation there. We grabbed a quick bite to eat and a well deserved sleep.
The long naive of the Basilica, leading to the apse, or sanctuary, where the alter is found.
The beautiful alter...
Near the entrance to the naive, was this devotional to the crucified Jesus; I was was struck by all the different sized heart-shaped medallions surrounding the plaque, I'm guessing from some wealthy or important parishioners.
The fresco below, in the apse, depicts the Glory of Saint Dominic.
The ark's marble sarcophagus contains the cypress chest with the remains of the saint, placed high above an altar to make it visible to the numerous pilgrims who often crowded around it.
Behind the ark is an x-ray of the Saint's remains, I guess to prove to the faithful that Saint Dominic is indeed near.
Also behind the ark is the precious fourteenth-century reliquary containing the head of Saint Dominic, which has been carried in procession through the streets of the city on the occasion of the Saint's feast.
Below, a place to pray and pay tribute to the "rosary of the gifts of Mary" - the gifts of pain, gifts of joy and gifts of glory.
After a while, we surmised that the mass was not going to happen. When we exited the Basilica, we could see that an event was about to happen, so we stuck around as it became more organized.
Turns out, June 2 is an Italian national holiday, the "Festa della Repubblica", which celebrates the founding of the Italian Republic. As you can, see many military and political dignitaries had gathered in the large Piazza San Domenico (with the stone and copper Madonna del Rosario (1632), in the background, which commemorates the end of the plague that afflicted Bologna).
The Chapel of San Petronio is best known for housing the head and body of Saint Petronius, the Bishop of Bologna during the 5th century and the city's patron saint.
In 1249, Accursio da Bagnolo was a Tuscan law professor who moved to Bologna to teach and he built his home in the Piazza Maggiore which included a tower, later known as the Torre d'Acccursio
The first clock in the tower was an astronomic-astrologic clock that indicated the time as well as the phase of the moon, solar rotation, and the signs of the zodiac. Every hour on the hour, a carousel of painted wooden figurines with the three Magi, preceded by an angel playing a trumpet, passed and bowed in front of the Madonna with child. In 1451, the clock tower was turned into a bell tower with the first mechanical clock connected to a bell that rang on the hour, continuing the tower's significance as a reference point for the entire city.
In 1774, the tower was completely restored with the assembly of the a new mechanical clock requiring the entire building structure to be strengthened. The old Magi carousel, which had been blocked for some time, was reactivated.
Between 1885 and 1887, the tower was restored again to convey a more Medieval appearance to the main structure. The Magi carousel was blocked again and eventually removed for good. If you want to to see the figurines, they are on display on the second floor of the Municipal Art Collections (Collezioni Comunali d'Arte)
Once at the top of the clock tower, I had great views of the the Piazza Maggiore and the rest of the city! Looking east with the dome of the Santuario di Santa Maria della Vita in the background.
Looking south towards the hills of Gaibola...
From this height, I got a great view of the unfinished façade of the Basilica of San Petronio - divided into two horizontal bands with the lower one made with marble panels and the upper one with exposed brick material which should have allowed for the anchoring of decorative cladding (left unfinished).
On the tour of the tower, you could see the clock mechanism slowly ticking away...
Looking north, with the Torre dell’Arengo, on the right and the Cattedrale Metropolitana di San Pietro, on the left.
Spinning around the compass, looking south again...
What great views! After getting my fill, I descended back down into the quiet and calming courtyard of the Palazzo d'Accursio...
... and in its landscaped garden, captured this picture of my bees' Italian cousin.
Leaving the Piazza Maggiore, we travelled west, towards the Porta delle Lame, to visit the MAMbo - Museo d'Arte Moderna di Bologna, the city's museum of modern art. We walked through all the exhibits and found a few pieces that were interesting, but overall, I have to say personally, this museum was a disappointment.
Between 1885 and 1887, the tower was restored again to convey a more Medieval appearance to the main structure. The Magi carousel was blocked again and eventually removed for good. If you want to to see the figurines, they are on display on the second floor of the Municipal Art Collections (Collezioni Comunali d'Arte)
Once at the top of the clock tower, I had great views of the the Piazza Maggiore and the rest of the city! Looking east with the dome of the Santuario di Santa Maria della Vita in the background.
I found the street art more engaging and in sync with current events.
Art and wit, even in commerce...
I could see a bridge crossing in the distance, so I continued down the Via Augusto Righi and hooked a right onto the Via Piella to find this, obviously more popular viewing point. Looking west...
After the MAMbo, and learning about the history of the Navile Canale (see my previous blog posts) my wanderlust drew me into the hunt for another exposed, but "hidden", portion of the Canale di Reno - used in the Middle Ages to bring water to the city, provide hydraulic energy to run the mills, aid in commercial navigation, used for irrigation and as a way to direct water flow throughout the city.
Here's a map that shows the location of the canals that flow through Bologna.
Walking down the Via Augusto Righi, I ducked down an unnamed side street and found this vantage point. Looking east...
The Order, together with the Franciscans and the Dominicans, was one of the major driving forces behind a major reform of the Catholic Church, culture and European society. Alongside the convent, the Portici Accademici provides students with cover during foul weather.
Finally, I arrived at my ultimate destination, the Porta San Donato. I'm a sucker for the entrances to walled cities and this one, also known as the Porta Zamboni, is an original medieval gate - originally equipped with a drawbridge!
Headed back to the barn, I retraced a portion of the route Kathi and I took on our "secret food tour" of Bologna. The Basilica of San Giacomo Maggiore is always worth appreciating. Love those sculptured glass poppies!
Along the Via Zamboni, I passed a cool art gallery that had lots of historical drawings from Bologna's past; this one of the Due Torri...
I couldn't get a good picture of this colored drawing because of all the glare, but captured the image because it seemed to show the city from the opposite angle (looking south). It showed one of the ancient canals outside the city wall and perhaps that's the drawbridge of the Porto San Donato in the foreground and the Santuario Madonna di San Luca up in the hills.
I really liked this drawing of the walled city and its many towers and the Adriatic Sea in the background...
I had one last stop on my checklist and that was the Museo Civico Archeologico (Archaeological Civic Museum of Bologna) - located in the 15th century Palazzo Galvani.
Below, a collection of plaster copies of celebrated Roman and Greek sculptures.
Large amounts of finds from excavations conducted in and around Bologna during Etruscan times are represented by bronze tools and vases, pottery, Greek vases for drinking wine, other luxury goods like a large candle holder or a seat made of ivory and the “Certosa's Situla”, an ornate bronze container decorated with scenes of military, civic, and religious life.
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