Sunday, February 9, 2025

Italy/Slovenia 2024 - Day 1, May 22: Venice


This was our third trip to Italy together with Kathi ticking off some big wants on her list - Venice and Bologna. We included Trieste, a less popular city (but with its own 'grand canal'), that lay around the bend of the Adriatic Sea, abutting Slovenia to the east and Croatia to the south. From Trieste, we would dash into Slovenia for some sightseeing, fly fishing, and to visit the international headquarters for beekeeping.     

 We arrived at the airport and instead of taking a bus or train into Venice, we decided it would be more appropriate to go by water. It's pretty cool that the airport has its own water taxi shuttle facility.

Pulling away from the ferry docks, I have to say, the lagoon water where all the local seafood comes from, did not look too enticing! 
We entered Venice proper through the Cannaregio neighborhood filled with anticipation! We tucked under out first Venice bridge, the  Ponte dei Tre Archi, and the  Ponte delle Guglie followed shortly thereafter, before reaching the grand canal. 

Everywhere you looked, beautiful, historic buildings on the canal, like the  Chiesa di San Stae, a  17th-century sanctuary that houses intricate carvings, statues & paintings by renowned artists.
Before long, we passed under the famed Ponte de Rialto, a  16th-century stone footbridge (much like the Ponte Vecchio in Florence), crowded with shops and tourists!
In the narrow maze of alleyways, we used our phone's GPS and walking directions to find our way to apartment, put down our bags and decompress from the long flight. Once revived, we set out to do some light exploring. We strategically chose an apartment in San Marco as a hub to expand out to all the different neighborhoods of the city. Our first stop was just minutes away, the Piazza San Marco.
Unlike when I was 10 and my parents took the family on a 6-week camping trip through Europe, there were no vendors selling bird seed to feed the pigeons. I guess that keeps the square (and the unsuspecting tourists) cleaner.  

Inside the Basilica of San Marco was a wonderland of gilded ceilings, mosaics, and masterful artwork.

Ornate barriers separated the people from the clergy.
Behind the high altar lay the Pala d'Oro, made up of 250, 10th-12th century cloisonnes enamels of different sizes on sheets of gold
In the lower center is the great Christ Pantocreator; he is surrounded by evangelists, prophets, apostles and angels. The bordering panels portray the life of Saint Mark. Various pearls and precious stones are set in the enamels.
The Pala d'Oro is the world's only intact example of a large size gothic goldsmith's art and it is universally considered to be the most precious and refined expression of Byzantine genius and the cult of light, understood as the raising of man towards God.

Returning back to the front of the altar, I couldn't help but still be mesmerized by the grandeur of the place.

Kathi is always keen to light a candle and pray for a loved one. In places like this, it seems more meaningful somehow.
While Kathi waited, I climbed to the upper floors for a view from the balcony overlooking Saint Mark's Square. Inside, were the original bronze statues that used to adorn the outside of the Basilica.
The mosaics on the vaulted ceilings were breathtaking! Once can only wonder at the monumental effort it took to assemble these ornate scenes!
The Madonna...
Outside on the balcony, looking north, Saint Mark's Square lay out before me.  
Looking east, past the replica stallions, was the  Torre dell'Orologio (clock tower) and I was lucky enough to see the bell-ringers swing into action and hammer out the noon day hour.
Looking south, it was the portion of the square that led to the thoroughfare between San Marco and the island of Guidecca. The iconic columns topped with statues announced to all upon the sea, that this was a place of keen importance. 
Even thought the summer tides were not extreme, you can see shallow pools of water flooding up through the drainage system. Mostly, tourists just side-stepped these minor obstructions and cafe tables and chairs were set on higher ground.

Taking up a corner of the square was the  Campanile di San Marco, the cathedral tower.
Looking back from the sea, catching the basilica's reflection in the high tide.
Looking at the detail of the basilica's roofline and spires. The wealth that created all this in the 14th and 15th century is unimaginable.
In front of Palazzo Ducale, the gondoliers wait for clients to ply the waters of the Grand Canal.
We walked back through San Marco to the Rialto Bridge - both the interior steps, with the shops and the exterior steps, with the views, were still pretty busy. We walked with our hands in pour pockets, listening for the woman who's become famous for outing pick-pockets. Attention!
Like the other tourists, we stopped long enough to take in the Grand Canal and take a quick selfie.
We ventured into San Polo, poking our noses into the labyrinth of alleys, each unique and, often, quite beautiful.
We circled back across the Rialto and made our way back to our apartment, marveling at the narrow canals off the Grand Canal - here, the Rio di San Salvador. 
After a trip back to the Apartment and a rest, we ventured back out again for some ice cream for dinner.
By 6 pm, all the gondoliers, were coming home to roost, tidying up and preparing for the next days' throng of tourists who would be willing to shell out $100 for an hour vying for space with the other boats.
For our day of arrival, we'd accomplished a lot, but had only just begun to unlock Venice's secrets. We happily retreated back to our apartment for a solid night's sleep.


Italy/Slovenia 2024 - Day 2, May 23: Venice

 We started our second day in Venice, of course, with breakfast.  Kathi had read about a good place to get cappuccino and a cornetto.  With our coffee jones in full effect, we bypassed the little shop just steps from our front door, and made the short trip to cafe Rosa Salva.

This morning, I don't recall who got the cornetto with the pistachio filling (probably Kathi), but this would become my favorite filling on this trip.  And, although we were up an atom most mornings and ready to explore, we would begrudgingly, but repeatedly, wait outside the cafe along with the other devoted regulars until the doors were opened at 8 am.  Totally worth it! 

Venice is uniquely characterized by its narrow canals.  In the early morning, all sorts of commercial and municipal service boat traffic was squeezing through its narrow passageways to begin the work day. 
This morning, we were leaving the San Marco district to explore San Polo.  First we had to cross the Rialto Bridge - the early morning light casting a shadow over the Rialto ferry station and bathing the Riva del Vin in sunlight.
Wandering our way through the maze of alleys in San Polo, we paused in the Campo San Polo to watch the dogs and kids playing, and think of our own sweet, chocolate lab, Lucca.
In the southwest corner of the campo lies the Chiesa di San Polo.  The church, dedicated to the apostle Paul, was founded in 837 by the doges Pietro Tradonico and Orso Partecipazio and rebuilt in the 12th and 15th centuries. 
Continuing to explore, we came across this little piece of street art, just before crossing the Ponte di San Polo.  It needs no explanation.
Crossing the Rio dei Frari canal, we came to the Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari. There seems to have been a community of Conventual Franciscans in Venice by 1225, and in 1234 Giovanni Badoer gave the friars (or Frari) some marshy land to build a church. The original smaller structure was replaced in 1442 - after 102 years of constuction!
Over the arch of the doorway is a 1581 Risen Christ by Alessandro Vittoria, flanked lower down by The Virgin and Saint Francis by Bartolomeo Bon in the 15th century.

Inside, the twelve huge round pillars between the nave and the aisles represent the apostles; the tie-beams are there for stability in a sinking city. 
Dominating the centre of the church, is a choir area for the friars, spearating the nave of the lay congregation by a carved marble screen built in 1475.  The dark wood of the monumental monks’ choir (a rare survival in Venice) was erected in 1468. The 124 choir stalls feature fine carving and intarsia by Marco Cozzi, depicting views of an ‘ideal city’. 
Kathi and I were both touched by this divotional statue of the Virgin Mary, where patrons ahd left photos of loved ones to accompany their prayers.

Palma Giovane's 1595 Martyrdom of Saint Catherine, that sits over an altar, was deemed unsatisfactory by the friars because of the violence it portrays, but they eventually came around and let it stay. 
The ornate confessionals almost makes you want to give up your sins.
In the Sacristy is Bellini's Madonna con bambino e santi  Below it is Cabianca's 1711 reliquary altar.  In its center is the relic of Mary Magdalene's oil mixed with Jesus's blood collected under the cross. 
Just steps off the sacristy is the sala del Capitolo (Chaper House) including the tomb of Doge Francesco Dandolo, with a Paolo Veneziano lunette panel of the Virgin and Child, with Saints Francis and Elizabeth of Portugal (or Hungary) and Doge Francesco Dandolo and his wife from 1339. 
Looking out into the courtyard and the capped freshwater well...
Titian’s Assumption (of the Virgin)over the main altar, sits in an enormous limestone frame and is said to be the largest altarpiece in Venice. 
The ornate frame is topped by a sculpted Risen Christ flanked by the figures of Saints Francis and Anthony of Padua all life-sized. 
In a side chapel. lies the Saint Mark Triptych...
We flanked the back side the Bascilica's presbytery along this lovely little tree-lined courtyard.
... and beautifully decorative fencing...
Dead ahead was the eye-catching Chiesa di San Rocco - Catholic church founded in 1508, with a baroque, 18th-century facade and paintings by Tintoretto.
Transitioning from the heavenly to the banal, I'm always drawn to the graphic arts; in this case the Italians co-opting the Flintstones for a band poster.
After a quick interlude, back to the heavenly -  a lovely religious monument tucked into a street corner.
Pretty alleys leading to private gardens and tony residences...
Many find Venice too crowded, at the big tourist spots are, but exploring the city beyond these crush points, the intimate canals will win you over.
With the bombing of Gaza, like in the US, evidence of solidarity with the people of Palestine was ubiquitous.
Continuing west through San Polo, we reached the Giardini Papadopoli, on the banks of the Rio Novo. It was a nice spot to take a break in the shade of the trees
Across the Rio Novo was a bustling commercial district with a Sephora, KFC (gross) and a Nike store - all hiding the train station behind it.
We had come to the end of San Polo and were now starting to circle back towards San Marco.  Along the canal, we had a ringside seat to observe how the local merchants get rid of trash.  Canal barges, with mounted cranes, lift trash bins onto the vessel, dump its contents, and then returns the bins to the street where they can be wheeled back intoi the merchant's collection area.  Inginuity!
More street art...
From simple stick figures... to more lifelike features with penetrating eyes...
Heading northeast, we crossed the Ponte del Cristo and were treated to this canal view of the Rio Marin.
Continuing our circumnavigation of San Polo, near the
Campiello de le Strope, open doors allowed us views into this woodworking shop.

We made our way to the Campo San Giacomo, where we found the Chiesa Parrocchiale di San Giacomo dall'Orio, with its bell tower and inviting, south-facing, sun-filled square.
Urban trees provided shade and respite for the eyes, body, and mind. 
Thought to have been founded in the 9th or 10th century, it is nevertheless among the oldest churches in Venice and is one of the starting points of pilgrimages to Santiago de Campostella, as evidenced by the image of a pilgrim carrying a shell on the bell tower.
One of the things we are always drawn to are the neighborhood produce markets that pop up throughout the cities of Europe.  
In freshness, diversity, and emphasis on healthy foods, they are a far cry from the neighborhood 7-11...
On the Rio del Magio looking towards the Calle del Tentor...
Crossing the Calle Colombo footbridge across the Rio del Magio, potted flowers for beauty, hanging laundry for utility...
Crossing the Ponte delle Tette, its a wonder that boats can traverse these narrow waterways.  Makes me wonder if there's a general acceptance of a maximum beam width.
For lunch, we hunted down All'Arco ("to the arch"), the spot popularized by Stanley Tucci's TV program Searching For Italy for its beautiful and tastey cicchetti - small plates of food meant as a quick, light meal.
The waiting line was, perhaps, evidence of Stanley's influence.  It's funny, I just listened to a podcast by Rick Steves on his thoughts about travel to Europe and he talked about the contradiction about travel writers publicizing places to go and then travelers having a poorer "authentic" experience when they get there.  He encouraged travelers to not avoid these recommendations, but only as a foundation for understanding and then a springboard to explore and seek out similar untrammeled places and experiences.  I think that's what we try to do with our travel, but I digress..

Inside All'Arco, (otherwise, the neighborhood bar) customers perused the glass cases and examples of the varieties of cicchetti.  
Kathi emerged with her choices.
You can see why these treats are beloved by Veneziani and tourists alike and why All'Arco is so popular.  The bite-size morsels are artfully arranged and delicious.

Next to All'Arco was this shop promoting the sale of baccala, the celebrated, salted cod originating from Scandanavia (Norway, Denmark, Iceland).  You can see how baccala is served in the top left of the photo above.
Baccala was not to our liking, but perhaps it is an acquired taste.

Later in the trip, we would travel to Bologna, known for its arched passageways.  So I was mindful, even in Venice to look up for inspiration.  These lovely painted arches are across the Ruga dei Spezieri, near the Rialto Mercato. 
Crossing back across the Rialto bridge, and then the Rio della Fava, we stopped at the Chiesa di Santa Maria della Fava, an ancient Roman Catholic church finished around 1500. The interior of the church has a famous altarpiece of Saint Anne, Young Mary, and Saint Gioacchino, (1732) by Tiepolo.
The main alter with its geometric, tiled floor was stunning!
Side alters were no less impressive.
Back on the street, anywhere near the tourist magnet of the Rialto bridge, you find these warnings.  Attenzione!  Beware of pickpockets!
More interesting street art...
Back in San Marco, it was getting near our American dinner time so this outdoor dining area near the Campo San Fantin looked really inviting!
In contrast to the hyper-commercialized, chain bookstores in the U.S., we love these Italian alternatives, tucked into the nooks and crannies of the Venetian streets.
On our way to the Campo Sant'Angelo, we stopped for apertivo to buoy us before a late Italian dinner. 
Happy to be in Italy, even with rain threatening...
Continuing on, we made our way to the Campo Sant'Angelo, with the
Campanile di Santo Stefano looming in a background of alternating sun and storm clouds.
In the Campo Santo Stefano, a lovely flower merchant strategically displayed her wares to draw customers in.
At the Ponte dell'Accademia, we stopped and looked to the east to admire the Grand Canal and the Basilica Santa Maria della Salute in the Dorsoduro neighborhood.
We retraced our steps to the Campo Santo Stefano, anchored by a statue of Italian linguist, journalist & essayist Niccolò Tommaseo and the Chiesa di Santo Stefano.
After all the day's roaming, it was finally time to eat!
We chose the outdoor seating offered by the Beccafico Guna Restaurant and were not disappointed!
I had the ravioli alla ricotta e spinaci and Kathi had the millerighe  alla norma ("thousand lines" pasta with tomato sauce, aubergine and ricotta).  
 A work of art...
Strolling home, we connected with the Campo San Fantin and admired this intimate setting for a meal, coffee, or a drink - you'll find nothing like this in the U.S. unfortunately.
Street art in my imagination; can you see the mustached grimace in this apartment call box?
Crossing the Ponte dei Barcaroli and dreaming what it would be like to live the beautiful canal life...
Past 9pm now, we paused in Saint Mark's square to take in the glow and warmth of the early evening lights.
We returned to our apartment to rest for more adventure tomorrow.