Tuesday, January 7, 2025

Italy/Slovenia 2024; Day 9, May 30 - Radovljica, Slovenia

While I was picking up supplies from my local Virginia beekeeping vendor, I mentioned that I was going to be fly fishing in Slovenia. He said "you know that's the international capital of beekeeping". I didn't, but after a little research, found that it was true and that the Slovenian Apiculture Museum was located near where we were staying in Ljubljana. So I pitched the idea to Kathi that we stay overnight in Ljubljana and take the train to Radovljica. She graciously agreed, here we were taking the train to the beekeeping museum!

Me and my good sport!
We arrived at the little village's train stop and climbed the hill towards town.
As we ascended, we were treated to beautiful views of the Julian Alps. Unfortunately, the peaks of Triglav and Rjavina are lost in the clouds. Lake Bled is in the valley in the center of the photo.
Triglav is the highest in Slovenia and the highest in the Julian Alps. It is the pre-eminent symbol of the Slovenian nation, appearing on its coat of arms and flag.  

Above the train station, a signpost also reminded us that many paths crossed Europe to lead pilgrims to Santiago on the "way of Saint James".  
Looking to the west, the Pokljuka Plateau dominates the skyline, while forests, verdant fields, and walking trails along the Sava River fill the valley below.  
We knew we were in the right place as the roads into town were decorated with bee themes.  Slovenia has a long tradition of beekeeping and for the love of bees.  In Slovenia, one out of eery 250 people is a beekeeper (6X greater that in the U.S.)
The village of Radovljica was cute and nearly empty, definitely off the beaten tourist track!
The museum wasn't open yet, so we grabbed a seat at this outdoor cafe for a cappuccino.
Lovin' the sheep's wool seat coverings!
At 10 am, we ambled over to the city hall, which also housed the Slovenian Museum of Apiculture. 
I nside, on the second floor, the museum is thoroughly modern (in contrast to the historic building).
Clowning around - so happy!
Inside the museum, we learned may things about the history of beekeeping in Slovenia and Slovenian contributions to the art of beekeeping throughout the world.

But first, a little about honey bees in Europe and the unique Carniolan bee native to this region...

(I've included some slides are from a PowerPoint presentation I made for my local beekeeping club)

The Carniolan bee is found in the southeastern area of ​​the Alps. It is more widespread in central Europe and in the southern part of Austria and in a large part of Hungary, while it is also present in a small part of northern Italy, Croatia, in part of Romania, in Bosnia and Herzegovina and Serbia.

Due to its favorable morphological and ethological characteristics, the Carniolan bee is also present in other countries of Western Europe and the wider world, thanks to the contributions of bee merchants in the past.

The Carniolan bee was identified by August Pullman in his 1879 book, considered to the first valid description of the species Apis mellifera carnica.

From the mid 19th to the mid 20th century there was a lively trade in Carniolan bees, known for their exceptional calmness, tameness, adaptability, good yields on pastures, low food consumption over the winter, and rapid spring development.

These were the traits that grew in demand from beekeepers all over the world. The sale of bees was even more profitable than sales of honey and other products, so more Slovenian beekeepers engaged in that trade.

Successful presentations at numerous beekeeping fairs and exhibitions in Slovenia as well as Slovenian beekeepers' high quality professional journalism by Emil Rothschutz, Mihaek Ambrozic and Jan Strgar all contributed to the flourishing trade. Today, the Carniolan bee is the second most widespread honeybee in the world (after the Italian bee).

In Slovenia, Carniolan bees are covered by the Livestock Act, which provides it special protection, care, and conservation.
Urban environments are characterized by exceptional biodiversity and, according to some research, even more comparable to rainforests.
Due to various plantings, tree-lined streets, flower beds, gardens, parks, and green roofs, blooming plants are constantly available and provide food for bees.

Now more about the history...

Below is a portrait of Saint Ambrose - the patron saint of beekeepers and candlemakers.
Legend has it that a swarm of bees settled on the mouth of a baby when he was sleeping in his cradle, but none of them stung him. This was said to herald his exceptional oratory skills. After this event, he was re-named Ambrosia, the Greek word for nectar - the food of the gods that gives eternal youth and immortality. He later became Ambrose, Bishop of Milan (339-397) - the patron saint of beekeepers and candlemakers; he is thought to protect against bee stings.    


The first reliable record about the use of apiaries is in the depiction of the Zonek Castle near Ljubljana in a book from 1689. 

The hives were placed in a special "bee house" to protect them from weather.

Anton Jansa was born in 1734 in Breznica into a family known for it's long tradition of beekeeping and their painting of beehive panels. He picked up the family tradition at an early age and became a pioneer of organized beekeeping.
As an excellent practitioner and theorist, he wrote two books on beekeeping - Discussion on the Swarming of Bees (1771) and A Complete Guide to Beekeeping (1775). Both books introduced several new ideas and disproved incorrect beekeeping theories and he taught and introduced his methods of beekeeping, developed in his home Carniola region, on a global scale.

In 1775, Empress Maria Theresa issued a patent for the establishment of beekeeping schools based on Jansa's model. State instructions for master beekeepers were written according to Jansa's findings and were ordered to be followed by all teachers of beekeeping in the Empire.

Through his professional work, inventions, teaching and theories, Anton Jansa influenced the development of modern beekeeping around the world and due to the initiative of the Slovenian government, the United Nations declared May 20, Jansa's birthday, as World Bee Day!

Much of the credit for the development of Slovenian beekeeping and the bee trade can be attributed to Mahael Ambrozic.

He had a number of commercial apiaries and one designed specifically for breeding queens. 
During the time he traded in bees, which began in 1872, Ambrozic was said to have exported more than 70,000 bee colonies.

Jan Stragar was the most prolific bee merchant in the first half of the 20th century. Due to his exceptional advertising, perseverance, and good service, in a few years, he overtook all domestic competitors and, following the death of Mahael Ambrozic in 1904, became the largest exporter of Carniolan bees.

The beginning of Strgar's foreign trade dates back to 1903. He was one of the first to raise queen bees at breeding stations and he sent these and bee colonies all over the world in traditional Carillon bee hives called kranjici (cranium), because they produced strong swarms and were suitable for stacking in an apiary and for transport.

His bees were exported to Russia, Australia, India, Brazil, Japan, Cuba and the US. In the area between the two World Wars, he exported a lot to Egypt. He set a world record for sending his bees over long distances and even after several weeks of travel, his queens arrived at their destinations unscathed. Strgar was the recipient of numerous awards, medals, and decorations. His collaboration with many experts and scientific institutions contributed to the establishment of the Carniolan bee throughout the world.
   


Technological progress led to the development of beekeeping in the second half of the 19th century. 

The invention of the comb frame, comb foundation, the honey extractor, and the queen excluder in the mid 19th century led to the era of modern beekeeping.

The invention of moveable combs, which took place independently in different parts of the world, made a great contribution as well. Slovenian beekeepers have always successfully incorporated innovations in their approach to beekeeping.

On March 4, 1883, a meeting of 70 beekeepers, meeting in Lesce, agreed on the establishment of the Beekeeping and Fruit Growing Association of Carniola. The association was formed to connect beekeepers in the area.
On March 4, 1951, after several different organizational forms, the society was renamed the Radovljica Beekeepers' Association and today is part of the Gorenjska Beekeepers Association and the Slovenian Beekeepers' Association. Breeding stations were subsequently established, lectures organized and a shop with beekeeping supplies opened.

The slide below shows the differences between the Slovenian "AZ Hive" and the Langstroth-Root hive popular in the US.
The constructor of the AZ hive, Anton Znidersic (1874-1947), was inspired by the leaf hive designed by the German beekeeper, Adolf Alberti. He took the measurements of the comb frame designed by Ferdinand Gerstung, but made the hives horizontal, in the direction of the bees' flight. The hive is tended from the back, so they can be stacked on top of one another. The combs are placed in two tiers of 9 or 10 separated by a queen excluder, which keeps the queen in the lower brood chamber and the honey in the upper chamber.

The Langstroth-Root Hive (popular in the U.S.) was designed by Lorenzo Loraine Langstroth (1810-1895) and Amos Ives Root (1839-1923). The box hive system uses 8-10 hanging frames, usually in two or more hive boxes. The queen excluder separates the brood chamber from the honey chamber. LR hives are tended from above.

A model of an AZ hive in the museum...
Tending the hive from the back of the bee house (shown with common beekeeping tools - smoker, bee brush, comb cap remover, etc)
Examples of older hive designs...
Historical hive and beekeeping tools...
Slovenian beekeepers developed portable hives so that they could be transported to the fields and aid in crop and tree pollination.

What I found the most fascinating was the tradition of the painted panels of the front of all the hives.  
Made for the traditional Carniolan "kranjic" hives, they are a unique part of Slovenian folk art, found no where else in the world.
The themes of the panels were often religious (Old and New Testament, Saints, the Madonna and Jesus, etc.)...
A popular panel depicting Saint Florian..
He was a Roman soldier who refused to persecute the Christians and was ordered burned to death and although he climbed atop the pyre, the Emperor refused to make him a martyr but later had him scourged and drowned. His body was recovered and he was made a saint and protector of fire fighters and floods.

The painted panels also included themes from everyday life and folklore.

Men drinking and playing cards...
Of course, beekeeping was a common theme...
The beekeeper with the "smoker" doesn't get stung...
The family, gathering around, entertained by the bees...
Catching a swarm...
A bear stealing honey...
This also seemed to be a popular folkloric theme - the devil sharpening a woman's tongue...
I'm grateful Kathi agreed to indulge my growing interest in beekeeping, and adapt our itinerary to accommodate a trip to the Slovenian Museum of Apiculture. It was interesting and informative and it gave me an even deeper appreciation for the tradition I was now a part of.
Back out in the town, we strolled about exploring the main pedestrian thoroughfares and even some of the side alleys. 
This passageway led to an intimate courtyard.
It was now time to make our way back to Trieste. Kathi purchased our train tickets back to Ljubljana at a convenient and modern kiosk.
We arrived at the station... 
...  and Kathi guided me to a honey shop she had scouted out the day before while I was fly fishing.  In Slovenia, many people appreciate local honey for its medicinal value and health benefits.  We were able to sample wildflower, tree and other varieties... 
... and decided to buy samples of all but one.  We selected jar volumes that were just small enough so they could be transported in carryon luggage.
It had started to rain, but Kathi wanted to show me some of the sights she had discovered the day before. The wide pedestrian walkways and bridges across the Ljubljanica River. Below is the site of the Tromostovje or Triple Bridge
The Mesarski most Bridge with glass pedestrian walkway and festooned with lovers' padlocks.
Looking up the Ljubljanica  River...
Even in Slovenia, protests to the war in Gaza...
Lastly, Kathi took me to the Zmajski most, the Dragon Bridge, at the base of the Ljubljanski grad, the Ljubljana Castle.
After a whirlwind tour of Ljubljana, it was time to catch our train back to Trieste. 

We arrived back in Trieste around 7 pm, dropped out bags at the Hotel Solun, donned raincoats and ventured back out for a last dinner in Trieste.  On our way, we stopped to honor the tradition of giving the statue of James Joyce a pat on the shoulder.  He lived in Trieste for 15 year and is well loved there.
We passed the Borsa Vecchia, an historic landmark in the Piazza della Borsa.
As we traversed the Piazza Unità d'Italia, the setting sun painted the storm clouds with a beautiful light.
Walking down the Via di Cavana with the tower of the Chiesa S. Antonio Vecchio in the background.
We decided to revisit the restaurant N'Joy and get one (or two) last glasses of their house special spritz to close out our adventures in Trieste.  Can't wait to make these at home!  
Tomorrow, Bologna!