Italy 2023, Day 15: Riomaggiore to Levanto to Milan

We woke up early and showered before breakfast. We descended down the steep stone steps and bought crema croissants at Il Maggiore and then found cappuccino at “Nonna Vittoria Cafe and Bistrot". We enjoyed the cool quiet streets before most of Riomaggiore stirred. Freeing up one of the few outside tables, we paid and climbed back up to the room, packed and descended the stairs for the last time (this trip). I struggled to get the key deposit to work (a sign) but it finally swallowed our key forcing us to leave.

We boarded the morning train to Levanto, where we would have to change to a regional train service that would take us to Milan. We made it to Levanto easily enough, but the earlier connecting train was full, so we would have to wait a couple of hours. Kathi watched the bags while I took a turn walking around and rekindling our fond memories of Levanto.

I walked down the Corso Roma until it intersected with the Ligurian Sea at Spiaggia Levanto. Here's the beach looking north...

... and south

All the little towns along the coast seem to have signs that show the paths connecting them to their surroundings. Here's Levanto's ...

Umbrellas and beach lounges all at the wait...

I walked down the Corso Italia and window shopped. I visited the surf shop, but didn't see anything that compelled me to buy (and not look like a poser). I walked up theVia D. Alighieri, passing the Piazza Generale Staglieno where Kathi and I had danced to a band in 2018 - such memories! I saw the little shop, the Pesto Laboratory, where she purchased her mortar and pestle and another kitchen store selling spices and herbs that I knew Kathi would be interested in. I climbed back up to the train station and took my turn watching the bags while Kathi ducked down into Levanto to check out the kitchen store.

After a while, she returned but I was disappointed that she had returned empty handed; likewise, she hadn't found any must haves. Eventually, we boarded the 1 pm train to Milan. We arrived at the Centrale train station around 4:15.

It took us a few minutes to get our bearings but we got headed in the right direction and jumped on the next trolly heading to the Canal District in Milan where we would spend our last evening in Italy.

The trolly was slow, but eventually we made it to the Navigli canal district, which some claim is the most charming and vibrant area of Milan. The crowds were certainly there!

We found our room at Ritorno alle Origini Suites, which was situated in a building occupying a prime spot along the canal, but our room's window faced a small private courtyard so we could sleep without being disturbed by the revelry the area was known for.

We dumped our bags and went out to walk along the canal.

Naviglio Grande is a canal between Milan and the Ticino River. Along the canal, there is a host of small restaurants souvenir shops and street vendors with their trinkets on carts or laid directly on the ground. On our tour, we paused to take the quintessential selfie on one of the bridges crossing the canal.

After coursing up and down the canal, we finally picked a spot for apertivo. We had to share a communal table to get a seat, but as soon as a private table opened up, we jumped for it. Kathi and I both opted for a Hugo spritz with elderflower liquor.

We sipped our spritzes but I have to confess, I wasn't digging the vibe. It all seemed too crowded and rushed and seemed to lack the intimacy that we had found is so many other towns. I'll admit it, that should not be unexpected, but it just shows my preferences for the small Italian towns over the big cities. We walked around a bit more, and then crossed the canal to find a recommended restaurant for dinner - El Brellin

Just outside the garden terrace was the Vicolo dei Levandai, the historical alley where washerwomen would bring their clothes and beat them against the stone "brellin".  The restaurant sits on the site of the old grocery store where the women would buy soap, brushes, and other items to aid in their work.

For dinner I ordered the renown ossobuco di vitello in gremolada - braised veal shank with risotto milanese (with saffron and bone marrow).

Kathi got the chicche di patate e barbabietola - lemon scented potato and beetroot dumplings with burrata cream and basil zucchini. We took our time, sipped our wine, and savored every moment. 

Leaving the restaurant, we walked back along the eastern side of the canal as night began to fall.

Circling back to our hotel room, we paused along the

Naviglio Grande and were enticed into having one last gelato.

Looks just like the advertisement! I had my favorite flavors - fior di latte and hazelnut

The Italians know how to do sweets!

As the sun fell below the horizon, the cafe lights began to cast a soothing glow on the canal streets.

While the evening promised its own delights, we were both pretty tired and still needed to pack for the long travel day ahead.

We packed as many dirty clothes and other items as we dared (that we could do without if our bags got lost or delayed) into the yellow duffel I had carried the whole time in the bottom of my backpack. Then we packed our Parmigiano-Reggiano, balsamic vinegar, cinque terre tile and patches, thank you gifts and other souvenirs we had picked up along the trip into our carry-ons and fell fast asleep.

2018 Italy Vacation, Day 13: Back to Levanto

We wound out way down the mountains of Crovara and San Marco D'Urri reveling in our unique experience, but as we coursed along the river, my thoughts tuned back to fishing and taking this day next level.

As we drove, I kept a look out for a spot to park and access as promising section of the river.  We crossed the stream and found a semi-industrial area where it seemed no one would care if I pulled off on the side of the road.   Kathi read, while I made my way down to the banks of the river.   The river and the surroundings were beautiful.  It had been tamed by many damns and was slow moving so I dispelled any notion of Italian trout.

 I found a section with faster moving water and a little riffle section.  I cast my nymph and let it drift through the section.  I saw some fish move around and after a couple of drifts, got a solid strike.

I'm guessing this is perhaps the Italian equivalent of our fall fish.  Pretty nonetheless.  The Tenkara USA Rhodo is now an international traveler.

 I couldn't resist walking upstream...looking around the next corner... and testing the waters.  But before too long, I knew I should pack it up and rejoin Kathi for the drive back to Levanto.  We stopped for gelato to carry us through the late afternoon drive.

We arrived in Levanto in the late afternoon, checked back into Hotel Oasi.  We got a dinner recommendation from the front desk and set out on foot.

We made it to La Tavernetta just as the sunlight was fading.  We got a nice candle-lit streetside table for two.  Kathi had troffia with pesto and I had paccheri ragu.  While we waited for the main course, we received a "house welcome" shrimp cocktail and pineapple with prosciutto primi.  We shared a 1/4 liter of house blanco, bread, and finished our meal with some complimentary limoncello and espresso.  What a great little restaurant.  We love Levanto!

After dinner, we strolled down to the waterfront.  Kathi showed me the private beach/swim club she had stumbled across a few days earlier.  It's pool glowed in the dark sky.

We continued along the waterfront promenade and down to the harbor looking for some info on a snorkeling outfitter for the next day's adventure.  

It was a beautiful, breezy evening and we took our time enjoying the boats, the gentle sea, the twinkling lights, and each other's company.

We circled back to Hotel Oasi, and climbed into bed after a miraculous and magical day.

2018 Italy Vacation, Day 10: Levanto - Gateway to Cinque Terre

We steered the car northwest towards the coast - with vistas of Liguria and its sea to our left and the mountains of Tuscany to our right.  Slabs of marble lined up in factory lots along the highway announced that and we were driving past Carrera. We passed Sarzana, Ceparana, Posticcio, Brugnato, and then wound our way down through the mountains as dusk began to fall on Levanto.

We checked in at our accommodations at the Oasi Hotel, hid the car in their underground lot, then lugged our suitcases to the room, indulging in a hot shower and change of clothes - so nice!  


The front desk gave us a recommendation for dinner, and as we walked towards the seaside, we made note of shops we’d like to visit during the daylight hours.

We had one of the most fantastic meals at the Osteria Tumelin.  Kathi and I had the Pennette agli Scampi for two (pennette pasta with tomato sauce, whipped cream, garlic, parsley, and shrimp)

an excellent house vino blanco ...

frizzante, a custard desert, and espresso - heaven!

Strolling back to the hotel, we floated along buoyed by our wine buzz, lingered at the town park to listen to the band playing.  

Even at 10:30 or so, there were kids going bizerk in the bounce house, playing on the swings, and running around while their parents danced and kissed in the glowing lights.  We were enchanted by Levanto!  We decided to come back and spend our itinerary’s “open day” in and around Levanto.  

But now it was time for bed and the comfort of the Oasi Hotel did not disappoint!