2018 Italy Vacation, Day 13: Hiking from Vernazza to Corniglia

Sadly, today, we would be saying goodbye to Cinque Terre.  But before we left I had one more task to accomplish - hiking the last, unexplored segment of the trails connecting Cinque Terre - from Vernazza to Corniglia! 

We had a full day planned to the north in San Marco D'urri, so as not to detract from that quest, I arose around 6 am with a Clif bar in hand and bolted out of the door, down the alleyway, and met the trail heading southbound - of course, back up the steps leading away from town.

The map below is actually in Corniglia, but it shows the route so I'm providing it here.  

I arrived at the official national park entrance at around 6:30 and normally there would be someone in there checking to make sure all hikers had their Cinque Terre cards, but it was so early, the shack was unmanned.   

Signs on the shack listed the distance of the hike...

... and other important rules and information.  Respect the farmers, yo! 

Shortly after passing the entrance hut, you arrive at the quintessential vantage point for the myriad of photos of Vernazza.  Here is my myriad +1 

If you locate the big orange house in the middle of the photo, there's a white addition, barely visible, sticking out of the left hand side near the roofline. That's where we stayed.

The fun was over and now it was time to climb!  Up we go.  Again, I was thankful for those stair climbing sessions in the gym!

With the elevation, more and more of the coast came into view, and the rising sun cast a beautiful hue across the horizon. 

Looking past the castle on the point in Vernazza you can see the shoreline of Monterroso al Mare.

I was constantly enchanted by the makeshift and personalized devotionals throughout Italy and the Cinque Terre.

The tunneling that went into providing train service between the towns is impressive.

 Sometimes the trail goes shoddily up...

... sometimes it dips a little...

Sometimes it's smooth and mercifully level...

But mostly its up and more up!

After about 45 minutes, I arrived in this little settlement.  The trail runs right through this cluster of buildings.

 A sign and the white over red trail maker show the way.  This is not a trap!

As you enter the narrow alleyway, you are confronted with this delightful little waystation.

The sign exclaims "Congratulations, you are 1/2 way there!  And then invites you in for a meal and/or a drink with a seaview.  

I sorely regretted that it was too early for them to even be open for breakfast.  I will just have to come back!

More interesting devotionals to Mary.

And on one of the back walls, this cool little sign giving the story of the Cinque Terre hiking trails in pictorial form.  Don't even think about taking this sign - you're being watched!

Right before leaving this enclave was another sign advertising the terrace bar at Il Gabbiano.

Looking forward, my destination came into view - Corniglia!

Manarola peaks out in the background.

Continuing on, and then looking back, you can spot Bar Gabbiano mid-way up the mountain with the San Bernardino community above.  Once the sun was up at around 7 am, it got hot already.  Like the guidebooks say, it's best to hike early or late in the day in the summer.

This was the only spot where I remember there was space to get off the trail and camp - don't know if this is legal, allowed, or frowned upon. The picnic table makes me think it's legal.  For the nomads out there, it's worth finding out about.  No one was up or about when I cruised through.

Getting close to Corniglia now, the trail was level and the town in view.

The trail begins its descent...

At this point, the trail was perilously close to the edge of the bluff.  I slowly crept close enough to get this shot looking back towards Vernazza but it and Monterosso are both hidden in the folds of the mountainous coastline.  Oh, the color of the Ligurian Sea!

The first cove in the lower left of the photo above is the fabled Guvano Beach - the "hidden" nudist beach of Cinque Terre.  For you seekers out there, it's not safe to try the long trial access because of landslides, so it's best reached by boat.

The trail starts to descend in earnest.

The monorails used to carry motorized "trains" up the slopes to harvest olives and grapes are a testament to these steep, but working landscapes.

Flanked by beautifully-crafted stone walls, the trail makes its approach to Corniglia.

Good morning Corniglia...

Public art surrounds the trail marker right where the trail crosses the road - Via Stazione.

Another example of the fine stone craftsmanship in the walls leading into town.

The vineyards on the approach into town...

This marker shows that the trail is part of the Ligurian Coast Trail.  Translate the page to find out more here:  http://www.sentieroliguria.com/home/index.html

Along the trail wall I found this decorative spigot which you can use to fill up your water bottle.

About 1.5 hours after leaving the harbor in Vernazza, I was cruising into Corniglia.

That's about 2 mph which is not bad considering the first 45 minutes or so was all uphill plus all the stops for photos.

The palm trees in Corniglia were cool.

 An old grape press found decorating the alleyway into town.

The trail dumps you out right in front of the (Church) Chiesa Di San Pietro

More palm trees!

Here's the backside of the Church of San Pietro.  Looks like there used to be a big window and some other entryways that has since been walled up.

The trail dumps you out right at the top of the stairs that lead to the train station.  Nice to be going down instead of climbing up the 385 steps!

I hustled down to the station, and caught the next train back to Vernazza.  I clearly had been up and down from the harbor to the train station more than twice, so according to Christian, I was a local.  Accordingly, I easily and swiftly navigated the maze of alleyways to our room to rendevous with my beloved Kathi.  I quickly showered, donned fresh clothes, and we departed La Marina Rooms for the last time (this trip!).  

On the way to the train station we stopped to check out this display showing the ravages of the flood and resulting mudslide in 2011.  It really did a number on Vernazza!  

The recovery has been amazing!  

We met Christian at the train station and paid him for our stay (cash only), hopped on the train, and settled in for the short ride to Levanto to retrieve our car, an head out for one of the most exciting excursions of our trip - on to San Marco D'urri - the tiny village where Kathi's great grandmother was born!

2018 Italy Vacation, Day 12: Hiking Corniglia to Manarola

Today, we were splitting up.  Kathi was heading back to MaM to take a cooking class (see the separate blog post), and I was hiking from Corniglia to Manarola to Riomaggiore.

I left early and tromped up past the train station to get a bite to eat at Il Pirata delle 5 Terre. Planning to hike all day, I treated myself to a cappuccino and a pastry.  Satiated, I returned to the train station and hopped on the train to Corniglia.  I arrived in short order and it took me a little while to find the path, but when I climbed above the train station I found the familiar white and red stripes that marked the trail.

Corniglia is the only Cinque Terre Town without a harbor on the sea, it sits on the bluff.  Looking south, you can see my first destination, Manarola - not far as the crow flies,.  Unfortunately though, the quickest way, along the Coastal Trail (45 minutes), is closed.  So, instead, you have to take the high road, the  Panoramico Trail, to the small village of Volastra, and then descend to Manarola (2.5 hours).  

From the train station, I had to climb a long series of switchback steps to ascend to the town of Corniglia.

Here's the perspective from the top looking down and south.

Looking east. you can see the neat rows of vines that support the local wine-making culture.

 The path takes you past the Chiesa Di San Pietro.  As a man with a mission this day and a set time to meet Kathi back in Vernazza, I did not stop to explore the church. 

A multitude of stone steps greets you as you climb high above Corniglia.

Looking back as you climb, you get a splendid view of the town.
 The trail is well marked - this sign pointing back towards Corniglia, my starting point.

The trail continued upward - for me, over a steady hour, with only brief interludes of level ground.

 

Other trail markers point to side trails within the Cinque Terre National Park.  This one also points me in the direction of my intermediate destination - Volastra.  The distance, of course, is in kilometers.  One kilometer is 0.6 miles.

While it takes more effort than the Coastal Trail, the Panoramico Trail offers stunning comprehensive views of the coast.  Manarola, perched on its promontory, juts into the Ligurian Sea.

After an hour of climbing, the trail finally levels out and becomes ridge walking.

High above several rock slides that closed the Coastal Trail, the Panoramico Trail passes through a resident's backyard.  Looking north, Corniglia and Vernazza are hidden by the many mountain folds, but Monterosso al Mare is visible in the distance. 

If you look closely, you can see the collection of homes that make up San Bernardino at the top of the peak in the middle of the photo above.

This lucky resident's trialside home...

Colorful lizards hunting for prey along the stone walls....

Looking beyond the resident's garden, Corniglia stands like a coastal sentinel on the peak below.

Turning my attention to the south, beyond the terraced vineyards, Manarola beckons.

After about another 30 minutes, I rolled into Volestra - a small village on a high plateau above the sea.  Even though I had plenty of water to drink, I couldn't pass up an ice cold coke from this small cafe.

 I continued up the hill to check out the Sanctuary of our Lady of Health, the Parrocchia "Nostra Signora della Salute".

 It had a simple but elegant interior.  

 Inside, the sanctuary, I was struck by this beautiful sign, which loosely translated says 'Up in the hills full of olive trees and vineyards that the vital auras surround and streak, the streams bring forth the perfume of your flowers to Maria of the health and she regards this fortunate land benignly.'  Beautiful!

Perhaps hopped up on caffeine and not paying full attention, I continued past the bus station and ended up on the road climbing towards the village of Groppo (above Volestra).  

Looking back down at Volestra.

I could see Manarola down below and, without seeing any trail markers, surmised I was headed the wrong way.  I walked back down into Volestra and wandered until I came across this devotional. 'In times of trouble, Mother Mary speaks to me, speaking words of wisdom - follow the path to the sea.'

Pilgrims, use this map to avoid a similar fate.  Find the red trail in the narrow alley and follow it to Manarola.

Wandering about, I did come across this beautiful window.  

 

Having stumbled about for 30 minutes or so in Volestra, I continued on the correct trail, walking among the stone walls, terraces, and vineyards that punctuate this gorgeous landscape.

Looking back at Corniglia and Monterosso...

Manarola is getting closer - almost there!

The trail finally starts its descent towards Manarola.

Coming into town...

Manarola means "big wheel" and refers to the town's mill wheel used to make olive oil,  Its reportedly still located along the waterway that flows down the mountain, through the town's ravine, and on to the sea.  I looked for the manarola briefly, but did not find it.

Making my way to the harbor, I passed through the piazza which held the Catholic Church of San Lorenzo (1338), and its opposing bell tower - used to watch for pirates.  

The plaque on the facade of the bell tower pays homage to the soldiers fallen in WW I

 The church of St. Lawrence (San Lorenzo).

The inside of the church, like most in Italy, was gorgeous and it made me long for this beautiful architecture and decoration in the new world churches.

I liked the way the church was oriented so that these windows would catch either the rising or setting sun to cast a beam of light on the crosses.  Those medieval builders knew a thing or two.

Continuing towards the harbor, the commercial hub of Manarola began to present itself.

Closer to the harbor, stored fishing boats alluded to the work that supported this community more prominently in the past (and perhaps that sustain the locals long after the tourist season ends).  

The harbor is picturesque with its boats protected by the large stone jetty.  The large stone outcropping facing the harbor square is popular with thrill-seekers as they collect the nerve to jump off its precarious peak into the waters perhaps 50 feet below (much to the crowds delight!).

Walking the seaside promenade around the Punta Bonfiglio, as all the millennials snap selfies and hurry away to prove they were somewhere else, the explorer finds this shoreline where a concrete ramp leads down to the water and a small swimming area that provides a little more solitude.  See the landslides that have closed the Coastal trail between Manarola and Corniglia.

It was getting late, so I hurried back up through the town to find the trail to Riomaggiore.  The easy paved coastal train, aka the Via dell'Amore, likewise was closed due to avalanche damage and so I had to climb back up past San Lorenzo, past the town parking area and up a series of steps to merge with route SP 370 for the alternative way to Riomaggiore.  My tale continues in the next blog post.