Today, we were splitting up. Kathi was heading back to MaM to take a cooking class (see the separate blog post), and I was hiking from Corniglia to Manarola to Riomaggiore.
I left early and tromped up past the train station to get a bite to eat at Il Pirata delle 5 Terre. Planning to hike all day, I treated myself to a cappuccino and a pastry. Satiated, I returned to the train station and hopped on the train to Corniglia. I arrived in short order and it took me a little while to find the path, but when I climbed above the train station I found the familiar white and red stripes that marked the trail.
Corniglia is the only Cinque Terre Town without a harbor on the sea, it sits on the bluff. Looking south, you can see my first destination, Manarola - not far as the crow flies,. Unfortunately though, the quickest way, along the Coastal Trail (45 minutes), is closed. So, instead, you have to take the high road, the Panoramico Trail, to the small village of Volastra, and then descend to Manarola (2.5 hours).
From the train station, I had to climb a long series of switchback steps to ascend to the town of Corniglia.
Here's the perspective from the top looking down and south.
Looking east. you can see the neat rows of vines that support the local wine-making culture.
The path takes you past the Chiesa Di San Pietro. As a man with a mission this day and a set time to meet Kathi back in Vernazza, I did not stop to explore the church.
A multitude of stone steps greets you as you climb high above Corniglia.
Looking back as you climb, you get a splendid view of the town. 
The trail is well marked - this sign pointing back towards Corniglia, my starting point.
The trail continued upward - for me, over a steady hour, with only brief interludes of level ground.
Other trail markers point to side trails within the Cinque Terre National Park. This one also points me in the direction of my intermediate destination - Volastra. The distance, of course, is in kilometers. One kilometer is 0.6 miles.
While it takes more effort than the Coastal Trail, the Panoramico Trail offers stunning comprehensive views of the coast. Manarola, perched on its promontory, juts into the Ligurian Sea.
After an hour of climbing, the trail finally levels out and becomes ridge walking.
High above several rock slides that closed the Coastal Trail, the Panoramico Trail passes through a resident's backyard. Looking north, Corniglia and Vernazza are hidden by the many mountain folds, but Monterosso al Mare is visible in the distance.
If you look closely, you can see the collection of homes
that make up San Bernardino at the top of the peak in the middle of the
photo above.
This lucky resident's trialside home...
Colorful lizards hunting for prey along the stone walls....
Looking beyond the resident's garden, Corniglia stands like a coastal sentinel on the peak below.
Turning my attention to the south, beyond the terraced vineyards, Manarola beckons.
After about another 30 minutes, I rolled into Volestra - a small village on a high plateau above the sea. Even though I had plenty of water to drink, I couldn't pass up an ice cold coke from this small cafe.
I continued up the hill to check out the Sanctuary of our Lady of Health, the Parrocchia "Nostra Signora della Salute".
It had a simple but elegant interior.
Inside, the sanctuary, I was struck by this beautiful sign, which loosely translated says 'Up in the hills full of olive trees and vineyards that the vital auras surround and streak, the streams bring forth the perfume of your flowers to Maria of the health and she regards this fortunate land benignly.' Beautiful! 
Perhaps hopped up on caffeine and not paying full attention, I continued past the bus station and ended up on the road climbing towards the village of Groppo (above Volestra).
Looking back down at Volestra.
I could see Manarola down below and, without seeing any trail markers, surmised I was headed the wrong way. I walked back down into Volestra and wandered until I came across this devotional. 'In times of trouble, Mother Mary speaks to me, speaking words of wisdom - follow the path to the sea.'
Pilgrims, use this map to avoid a similar fate. Find the red trail in the narrow alley and follow it to Manarola.
Wandering about, I did come across this beautiful window.
Having stumbled about for 30 minutes or so in Volestra, I continued on the correct trail, walking among the stone walls, terraces, and vineyards that punctuate this gorgeous landscape.
Looking back at Corniglia and Monterosso...
Manarola is getting closer - almost there!
The trail finally starts its descent towards Manarola.
Coming into town...
Manarola means "big wheel" and refers to the town's mill wheel used to make olive oil, Its reportedly still located along the waterway that flows down the mountain, through the town's ravine, and on to the sea. I looked for the manarola briefly, but did not find it.
Making my way to the harbor, I passed through the piazza which held the Catholic Church of San Lorenzo (1338), and its opposing bell tower - used to watch for pirates.
The plaque on the facade of the bell tower pays homage to the soldiers fallen in WW I
The church of St. Lawrence (San Lorenzo).
The inside of the church, like most in Italy, was gorgeous and it made me long for this beautiful architecture and decoration in the new world churches.
I liked the way the church was oriented so that these windows would catch either the rising or setting sun to cast a beam of light on the crosses. Those medieval builders knew a thing or two.
Continuing towards the harbor, the commercial hub of Manarola began to present itself.
Closer to the harbor, stored fishing boats alluded to the work that supported this community more prominently in the past (and perhaps that sustain the locals long after the tourist season ends).
The harbor is picturesque with its boats protected by the large stone jetty. The large stone outcropping facing the harbor square is popular with thrill-seekers as they collect the nerve to jump off its precarious peak into the waters perhaps 50 feet below (much to the crowds delight!).
Walking the seaside promenade around the Punta Bonfiglio, as all the millennials snap selfies and hurry away to prove they were somewhere else, the explorer finds this shoreline where a concrete ramp leads down to the water and a small swimming area that provides a little more solitude. See the landslides that have closed the Coastal trail between Manarola and Corniglia.
It was getting late, so I hurried back up through the town to find the trail to Riomaggiore. The easy paved coastal train, aka the Via dell'Amore, likewise was closed due to avalanche damage and so I had to climb back up past San Lorenzo, past the town parking area and up a series of steps to merge with route SP 370 for the alternative way to Riomaggiore. My tale continues in the next blog post.
No comments:
Post a Comment