2018 Italy Vacation, Day 12: Hiking Manarola to Riomaggore

Because the Via dell'Amore, the paved coastal trail, was closed, I was forced to take the alternative route to Riomaggiore.

That meant climbing back above the town, connecting with route SP 370, passing underneath the mountains through a tunnel, crossing a bridge, and then rejoining the trail above Riomaggiore.  It wasn't far between the two towns, just indirect.   

After maybe 35-40 minutes, emerging from the tunnel, I got my first look at the northern half of Riomaggiore.  The other half lay over the ridge and around the corner.

I continued on across the bridge.

... and followed the signs; a quarter of a kilometer to the outskirts of the town.

And then the descent starts, step by step.

The white and red blaze confirms you're on the right path and the trail leads you down the spine of mountain splitting the town in two.

 The southern part of Riomaggiore, the southernmost of the Cinque Terre towns, comes into view with the deep blue Ligurian Sea beyond.

 Shortly after hitting the paved road, a different marker announces "You are here" and 'Castle this way'. 

The chalk way-marker was referring to the Castello di Riomaggiore.  I tried to get in since the view from the castle is supposed to be good, but they were closed for some reason, so I was thwarted.

Next to the castello is the Oratorio San Rocco - a tiny little church with a battered exterior.

Its interior was also in need of some maintenance, but the light streaming in from the stained glass windows added magic to this humble space.

 A close up of the simple alter...

 Continuing down into town...

Onward, the trail leads down to the Church of San Giovanni Battista di Riomaggiore founded in 1340. 

More ornate and lavishly decorated than the San Rocco, this church, with it's pillars, and stripped arches, is reminiscent of some of the larger Duomos we've seen throughout Italy. 

 I was taken by this devotional to Mary. 

The marble sculptures were also very impressive.

Within 100 meters or so, the little Oratorio of Santa Maria Assunta can be found.

It's interior is meticulously clean and simply beautiful.  

Continuing down the ravine towards the harbor, side streets, festooned with potted plants and flowers, invite greater exploration.

But alas, I'm falling behind in my rendezvous with Kathi.  I hustle down into the commercial center of town.

I pass this restaurant that advertises a menu not for the healthy - "everything fried"!

Finally arriving in the harbor and walking about I find the perfect spot to capture the essence of Riomaggiore.

It's harbor is small and quaint with the rock breakwater providing some protection from storms.  If I ever own a wooden rowboat, I will paint it blue and red.

 Beyond the curving breakwater, only rocky, jagged coastline invades the sea. I hope to return to explore this wild coast.

It was getting late, and I had to catch the train to meet up with Kathi following her cooking class in Monterosso al Mare.  I hurried along the paved promenade that led around the ridge that separates the southern part of town with northern section where the station is found.  I had to stop to admire this older couple enjoying the view and each other's company.  These are the types of moments I envision for my own retirement.

The train station came into sight.  With the stairs down to the water, I wondered if anyone swims in these turbulent waters.  It's probably worth the occasional dip during calm seas.

I jumped on the train and made it back to the Vernazza harbor and searched for Kathi at the rendezvous spot.  After a thorough search and not finding her, I grabbed an ice cold beer at one o the outside cafes, then climbed up to the room for a glorious shower and fresh clothes.  

Back down to the harbor, I met Kathi and we returned to the room where she feted me with the food she had made during her cooking class - gnocchi with pesto (bellissimo!), vegetables stuffed with a ham filling, and breakfast bread with dried fruit.  Her time was well spent and I'm sure I will be the benefactor of this class long into the future!    


Having filled me up, I was excited to share one of my discoveries with Kathi.  We agreed to return to Manarola where we enjoyed gelato and our passeggiata along the scenic coastal pedestrian walkway and around the point where I showed her the swimming beach away from the crowds.  

Kathi took this amazing photo of Manarola in the setting sun!

Along the walkway, I was enthralled by the wind sculptures of Pierluigi Bruno (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1hjXzLMMb60) that twisted and bobbed in the light breeze. What a perfect way to end the day!

We took our leave of Manarola, jumped on the train, and were shortly climbing the steps through the alleyways to find our room, our bed, and our well deserved sleep.