2018 Italy Vacation, Day 14: Levanto to Fiesole

We returned from Manarola to Levanto, showered and changed in the complimentary facilities at Hotel Oasi, settled our bill, inched the car out of their underground parking garage, and pointed the car back south for the tow and a half hour drive to Fiesole.  We had to return the car in Florence the next day and thought it would be nicer and more relaxing staying outside the city.  Our previous dinner at La Reggia had been wonderful and really strengthened our affinity for the place.

Fiesole was settled by the Etruscans 400 hundred years before the Romans founded Florence - more concerned with its strategic location high above the surrounding valley than Florence's proximity to the Arno River.  Later, wealthy Renaissance families built villas here to take advantage of the breezes during the hot summers.   

On the way to Fiesole, Kathi researched places to stay and settled on a place that had been recommended (#2) on Trip Advisor - Pensione Bencista.  It's a 14th century villa set high in the hills with stunning views of the hilly countryside and Florence and the vineyards and fertile farmland below.  We arrived in late afternoon and were greeted by the house Labrador retriever - a good sign.

 We explored the property which offered welcome surprises around every corner.  It's a huge property and we only scratched the surface on its many levels, terraces, libraries, and grounds.  Below is the corridor outside our room. 

 Looking out the window at the surrounding hills...

 On one of the many terraces where one can relax and enjoy the view of Florence below.  

 Did I say many terraces?  Yes, below is another!  I want to go back just to spend time on each one.  Kathi really scored a home run on this place!

 We had gone the trip without having one of the region's signature dishes, Florentine Bistecca, so we decided to pick our restaurant based on reviews of their rare beef.  Not a favorite of mine, I let Kathi chose the place and she choose Trattoria le Cave di Maiano.  Our hosts at Pensione Bencista said we could easily walk there so that's what we did.  

We set off on the narrow and walled road which followed the hilly terrain up, down, up, down to the chagrin of our tired bodies, but we eventually arrived close to their opening time (so Americano!).  Their terrace was nicely decorated, but surprisingly without much of a view beyond.  For dinner we decided we would make this one a four course affair.  For the appetizer, we ordered the Crostini Toscani.
 


For the Primi, we ordered the Fettuccine al Cinghiale.  I do love the wild boar!  For Secondo, of course, we got the Bistecca alla Fiorentina.

 Four our "side dish" we ordered the mixed salad - insalata mista.
 
And we also got a 1/4 liter of the house rosso.  Below is the Cinghiale.  Kathi gave me a larger portion thinking that I would not have much of the rare beef.

 

Here is the rest of the meal.  We were splitting the course, but remember all this food is traditionally meant for one person!  Yikes!

The bistecca - what a slab of meat!  And so rare!  Kathi enjoyed hers; I politely worked my way through a smaller portion.  I'm not criticizing the restaurant or the cook; rare beef is just not my thing.  Tackling all four courses, there was some bistecca left even after we had had our fill.  We should have ordered a smaller portion, but were trying to be respectful of the proper experience.  


We asked to have the remainder wrapped up to take home not wanting to to infer dissatisfaction.  We were a little embarrassed at not having finished it all and in the end forgot to take our package.

So full, up and down and up we walked towards the Pensione Bencista as the sun was fading over the hills.  It made for one spectacular silhouette.

 Once back in out room, we packed our bags for the next day getting ready to return the car in Florence and take the train to Rome.  Sleep came easily this night.