We had a full day planned to the north in San Marco D'urri, so as not to detract from that quest, I arose around 6 am with a Clif bar in hand and bolted out of the door, down the alleyway, and met the trail heading southbound - of course, back up the steps leading away from town.
The map below is actually in Corniglia, but it shows the route so I'm providing it here.
I arrived at the official national park entrance at around 6:30 and normally there would be someone in there checking to make sure all hikers had their Cinque Terre cards, but it was so early, the shack was unmanned.
Signs on the shack listed the distance of the hike...
Shortly after passing the entrance hut, you arrive at the quintessential vantage point for the myriad of photos of Vernazza. Here is my myriad +1
The fun was over and now it was time to climb! Up we go. Again, I was thankful for those stair climbing sessions in the gym!
With the elevation, more and more of the coast came into view, and the rising sun cast a beautiful hue across the horizon.
Looking past the castle on the point in Vernazza you can see the shoreline of Monterroso al Mare.
I was constantly enchanted by the makeshift and personalized devotionals throughout Italy and the Cinque Terre.
The tunneling that went into providing train service between the towns is impressive.
... sometimes it dips a little...
But mostly its up and more up!
After about 45 minutes, I arrived in this little settlement. The trail runs right through this cluster of buildings.
As you enter the narrow alleyway, you are confronted with this delightful little waystation.
The sign exclaims "Congratulations, you are 1/2 way there! And then invites you in for a meal and/or a drink with a seaview.
I sorely regretted that it was too early for them to even be open for breakfast. I will just have to come back!
More interesting devotionals to Mary.
And on one of the back walls, this cool little sign giving the story of the Cinque Terre hiking trails in pictorial form. Don't even think about taking this sign - you're being watched!
Right before leaving this enclave was another sign advertising the terrace bar at Il Gabbiano.
Looking forward, my destination came into view - Corniglia!
Manarola peaks out in the background.
Continuing on, and then looking back, you can spot Bar Gabbiano mid-way up the mountain with the San Bernardino community above. Once the sun was up at around 7 am, it got hot already. Like the guidebooks say, it's best to hike early or late in the day in the summer.
This was the only spot where I remember there was space to get off the trail and camp - don't know if this is legal, allowed, or frowned upon. The picnic table makes me think it's legal. For the nomads out there, it's worth finding out about. No one was up or about when I cruised through.
Getting close to Corniglia now, the trail was level and the town in view.
The first cove in the lower left of the photo above is the fabled Guvano Beach - the "hidden" nudist beach of Cinque Terre. For you seekers out there, it's not safe to try the long trial access because of landslides, so it's best reached by boat.
The trail starts to descend in earnest.
The monorails used to carry motorized "trains" up the slopes to harvest olives and grapes are a testament to these steep, but working landscapes.
Flanked by beautifully-crafted stone walls, the trail makes its approach to Corniglia.
Good morning Corniglia...
Public art surrounds the trail marker right where the trail crosses the road - Via Stazione.
Another example of the fine stone craftsmanship in the walls leading into town.
This marker shows that the trail is part of the Ligurian Coast Trail. Translate the page to find out more here: http://www.sentieroliguria.com/home/index.html
Along the trail wall I found this decorative spigot which you can use to fill up your water bottle.
About 1.5 hours after leaving the harbor in Vernazza, I was cruising into Corniglia.
That's about 2 mph which is not bad considering the first 45 minutes or so was all uphill plus all the stops for photos.
The palm trees in Corniglia were cool.
An old grape press found decorating the alleyway into town.
The trail dumps you out right in front of the (Church) Chiesa Di San Pietro
More palm trees!
Here's the backside of the Church of San Pietro. Looks like there used to be a big window and some other entryways that has since been walled up.
The trail dumps you out right at the top of the stairs that lead to the train station. Nice to be going down instead of climbing up the 385 steps!
I hustled down to the station, and caught the next train back to Vernazza. I clearly had been up and down from the harbor to the train station more than twice, so according to Christian, I was a local. Accordingly, I easily and swiftly navigated the maze of alleyways to our room to rendevous with my beloved Kathi. I quickly showered, donned fresh clothes, and we departed La Marina Rooms for the last time (this trip!).
On the way to the train station we stopped to check out this display showing the ravages of the flood and resulting mudslide in 2011. It really did a number on Vernazza!
The recovery has been amazing!
We met Christian at the train station and paid him for our stay (cash only), hopped on the train, and settled in for the short ride to Levanto to retrieve our car, an head out for one of the most exciting excursions of our trip - on to San Marco D'urri - the tiny village where Kathi's great grandmother was born!
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